Bedroom switching setup - 3way

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Not the for the first time, I've decided I want a 3-way in my bedroom.

Just wondering, is it possible to wire a three-way light switching setup without an 'intermediate' type switch - i.e. just using standard 2-way switches?

Reason being, I want multi-gang switches in all 3 locations and I can't find any switches for sale that mix the switch types in a single unit. I want 2-gang switches at each bedside that will control that side lamp and the ceiling lamp, and a 3-gang switch at the door which can switch all three.
 
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Just use grid switches. You buy a cover plate, a yoke/frame and the switch modules. It works out more expensive but it lets you mix and match.

The only problem is 3 switches is on a twin plate as opposed to being on a single box as it would be with a normal switch.

Look here
 
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Other way round.

Intermediate switches can be used as two-way.

You can get two-gang intermediates.
Ah of course, so if I just make one of the bedside switches a 2-gang intermediate, but wire the side-lamp gang as a two-way, then I can use standard switches everywhere else.

Perfect! Cheers.
 
And certain ranges that don’t do it you can swap out the switch modules on the back of a standard plate switch.

Hager switche modules are essentially a grid switch with a VERY slight difference in the moulding and the front cover missing. But you can swap an intermediate module from a switch plate onto a 2G switch plate
 
I want 2-gang switches at each bedside that will control that side lamp and the ceiling lamp, and a 3-gang switch at the door which can switch all three.
Maybe you should think about how important it is to be able to switch the bedside lights from the door.

I've got 2G 2W architrave switches each side of the bed, and they do the ceiling light, and the wall light on their own side, and a 1G intermediate by the door for the ceiling light.

I can honestly say that I've never wished I could switch the wall lights from the doorway.
 
And certain ranges that don’t do it you can swap out the switch modules on the back of a standard plate switch.

Hager switche modules are essentially a grid switch with a VERY slight difference in the moulding and the front cover missing. But you can swap an intermediate module from a switch plate onto a 2G switch plate
Top tip that- I'm working on a similar issue (ground floor and first floor landing lights that I want to be able to switch from many locations). I too had the problem of needing a 3 gang switch with a couple of intermediates in- that and the cost and hassle of stringing 4 runs of 2 core T & E between several switches had persuaded me to go a different route (couple of 48v impulse relays that I acquired from Bull Electrical years ago cos they were cheap, push buttons and CAT5 to string them all together). Now rethinking........... :)
 
Top tip that- I'm working on a similar issue (ground floor and first floor landing lights that I want to be able to switch from many locations). I too had the problem of needing a 3 gang switch with a couple of intermediates in- that and the cost and hassle of stringing 4 runs of 2 core T & E between several switches had persuaded me to go a different route (couple of 48v impulse relays that I acquired from Bull Electrical years ago cos they were cheap, push buttons and CAT5 to string them all together). Now rethinking........... :)

Unfortunately, the Hager 3G switch is a different switch module on the back to fit it in :cautious:. I believe MK MIGHT be separate modules but can’t remember off the top of my head if they come apart nicely
 
Unfortunately, the Hager 3G switch is a different switch module on the back to fit it in :cautious:. I believe MK MIGHT be separate modules but can’t remember off the top of my head if they come apart nicely
The MK 3g Switch K4873 is not separate modules
 
Better than grid switches, use Click. Looks like a normal switch then. Click Minigrid. You can actually use a normal Click Mode switch and swap modules. For example, buy this and an intermediate, swap the modules.

https://www.switch-lighting.co.uk/c...dqwzWHR4DDYfcivVJSu6Nqgw5pprP6EhoCJdYQAvD_BwE
That is if they stay in one piece before you manage to get out of the door.
I assume they have improved since we tried them, otherwise they would not still be around.
 
They used to be real tat, but now actually pretty good. I've found myself using them quite often.
 
They used to be real tat, but now actually pretty good. I've found myself using them quite often.
That's good, one of the consultants spec'd them a lot and we used to find that the switches came away from the plate. Other than that I always thought they were
They used to be real tat, but now actually pretty good. I've found myself using them quite often.
That's good to know, one consultant used to spec them a lot and we problems with the switches coming off the plate. Other than that IIRC I thought they were ok. I used one of the failed units at home and placed something behind it to prevent it happening.
 
They used to be real tat, but now actually pretty good. I've found myself using them quite often.
Yes you're right, they feel much better during assembly.
Thanks for bringing them back to my attention.
 

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