Beech Worktop problems...

[Big Nick]

I know that worktops are a regular subject on here, so I hope someone can give me some advice about what I can do with our MFI Beechblock.
1) I've been a naughty/ lazy boy and not oiled it properly for a while. In one high-use area, the blocks have started to raise slightly - not visible, but you can feel it with fingertips. Can this be sanded down without causing further difficulty, and what should I use (paper/elbow grease, orbital sander, or what)?
2) The plumber failed to seal the join properly around the inset sink, so water has seeped into the raw wood inside the hole, leading to a bit of corrosion (blackness) in the grain. Is there anything I can do about that other than cutting it out and filling the gaps?
3) Is there any shelf-life to the oil that I bought from MFI (the stuff in the yellow tins). Before anyone suggests using Tung Oil instead, I've got tons of this stuff, and would rather not shell out more if it can be avoided.
Over to you, and cheers in advance.
Nick.

 

[Scrit]

1) I've been a naughty/ lazy boy and not oiled it properly for a while. In one high-use area, the blocks have started to raise slightly - not visible, but you can feel it with fingertips. Can this be sanded down without causing further difficulty, and what should I use (paper/elbow grease, orbital sander, or what)?

Beg, borrow or hire a decent industrial 4in belt sander such as a Makita (not a lihghtweight cheap as chips POS DIY 3in belt machine - this job neads weight and power) and use in the direction of the grain ONLY. Start with 100 grit then work up to 180 grit (through 120 and 150). An ROS is a finishing sander and has little cutting power in this situation.

2) The plumber failed to seal the join properly around the inset sink, so water has seeped into the raw wood inside the hole, leading to a bit of corrosion (blackness) in the grain. Is there anything I can do about that other than cutting it out and filling the gaps?

Remove the sink and allow to dry out for a day or two. Treat the stained area with oxallic acid (bought as crystals from a finishing house such as Mylands). Wash-out thoroughly with water and allow to dry again, then sand to cut back the raised grain. This may require 2 or 3 treatments and will certainly be a lot less work. The black sounds like it might be ferric oxide (i.e "black" rust)

3) Is there any shelf-life to the oil that I bought from MFI (the stuff in the yellow tins). Before anyone suggests using Tung Oil instead, I've got tons of this stuff, and would rather not shell out more if it can be avoided.

Not really. If it's still liquid, then it's probably still useable. Minimum 3 coats though.

Scrit

 

[Big Nick]

Thanks for the detailed reply. I'll get on to it over Christmas.

 

[oilman]

If it's only slightly raised, you may be able to fix it with a cabinet scraper. A lot less unpleasant than sanding dust.