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Beko DW686 Dishwasher

Our Dishwasher didn't drain so I took of the lower panel and saw a blocked pipe from the sump. I cleared the block and the dishwasher worked again for 2 or 3 washes.
It then got stuck on drain again. I took the lower panel off and it had some water in it causing the float/flood switch to engage. I looked for leaks in the pipe I had unblocked but it seemed alright.

I cleared the water in the lower tray and restarted the machine. What seemed to be happening is the machine is draining then filling. It then stops for a minute or two and starts filling again, it keeps doing this until it floods, trips the float switch and drains again.

I ran the diagnostic test and it says it's not getting any water, but it's the opposite; it's getting too much water.

So I checked the inlet impeller- which is spinning fine. I then removed and checked the reed switch in front of the inlet impeller and that has continuity when I put a magnet near it. So that seems to be fine. I checked the wires from the reed switch to the main board and there is continuity there as well.

I put a multimeter (on continuity) on the reed switch pads whilst the dishwasher was filling and expected the multimeter tone to go on and off but it remained silent -do you think it's because the impeller spins too fast for the meter to register, or is it evidence that the switch is not working well enough.

Could the magnet on the impeller have lost charge? or could the reed switch not be sensitive enough any more?

There seems to be another reed switch on the salt dispenser/water purifier unit. It has what I thought was a float switch near it so I thought that perhaps it was not floating properly,
I drained the salt dispenser and removed it and the magnet moves freely when I tip the unit upside down.SO it has free movement, but it stays put and completes the circuit when the salt compartment it full of water
So I removed the switch from near the magnet (whilst it's still wired) to simulate the magnet part moving but that had no effect.
DO you know what the salt reservoir reed switch/magnet is for?

I'm stuck now I'm not sure what else could cause the diagnostic to think there is no water.

Ta
Rich
 
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Hi Midge

Thanks for the response. I've seen Doz's post - I've even commented on it (when I thought I'd solved my problem.)

I've had another go at the machine and it got through a 15min rinse cycle, and a quick 50min wash, but it only got halfway through the 2½ hour eco wash

Having tested the wires for continuity (they did have continuity when I tested them) I'm wondering if they might have an intermittent fault; sometimes the wire makes contact, sometimes not.

Strangely despite being that same model my dishwashers internals differ from the one on Doz's blog (my jug impeller (flow meter) is built into the clear plastic coated air breaker on the left hand side of the machine, and the Water softener compartment seems different as well)

I had assumed that the impeller (flow meter) determined how much water was in the system, but have also learnt that there are pressure switches in these machines as well, so it could, as you say, be the impeller reed switch wires, or perhaps the pressure switch. I'll have another go when I'm feeling a bit more optimistic about my success.

Hand washing has been relatively easy so I've not been in a real hurry to sort it, but it would be nice not to have to scrap it.

Thanks again Midge.
 
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I didn't read the comments so didn't spot that! :) With wires traversing a door opening, the constant bending/flexing over the years could have caused a wire core to break internally - so yes, it's entirely possible that it works/tests OK sometimes, and as the guy acknowledges, if one wire has already broken in his machine, what state are the rest in? i.e. it might be one of the other sensors/wires in your particular case. Case of continuity testing each and giving each wire a good waggle about really. Hope you find it - I agree, it's so wasteful to just scrap perfectly serviceable machines.
 

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