Best fixings into Thermalite block?

[JDLDIY]

Hi there, the title says it all really. I've always owned houses built with brick and so fixing in to walls to hang cupboards etc is straight forward. But this time I have to contend with Thermalite block walls with drywall adhesive and plaster boards which have been skimmed.

I'm told the block tends to just crumble and can't take much weight, what's the best way to go about this? What's the best fixings to use or will normal plugs do the job?

Many thanks

 

[^woody^]

Best fixings for holding up what?

 

[JDLDIY]

Well I have to hang kitchen cupboards and shelves and a bracket for a flat screen TV (fairly heavy).

 

[^woody^]

I generally use Fischer plugs like these - or more precisely cheaper ones that are similar design!

and they seem to give the best hold.

Or perhaps the frame fixing type screw/plugs which are like expansion bolts but are plastic

The trick is to drill a nice snug hole - slowly and not on hammer and not to jig the drill about.

You could also try those wet 'n' fix pads wrapped around the plugs - from screwfix item 77888

If you need to fix a batten or timber, then the helical nails can not be beaten - as long as you never need to pull them back out

 

[coolhandluke]

Cut clasp nails work well for skirting, door linings etc not much use for shelves though.

 

[Bilioustrumpstaine]

This type of finish (plasterboard dotted and dabbed onto blockwork) is a nightmare to fix into. Plaster board is 12/18mm thick then a void behind it which usually doesnt give enough space to use conventional plasterboard fixings. Standard length rawlplugs are not long enough to get a secure fix in most cases. I have used frame fixers in the past with good results their length allows them a good fix into the blockwork behind the board.

I will say here and now that I don't know if that is a recognised practice and one condoned by builders but it worked for me BUT I would be very wary about putting up a flat screen TV using this method.

 

[JDLDIY]

his type of finish (plasterboard dotted and dabbed onto blockwork) is a nightmare to fix into. Plaster board is 12/18mm thick then a void behind it which usually doesnt give enough space to use conventional plasterboard fixings. Standard length rawlplugs are not long enough to get a secure fix in most cases. I have used frame fixers in the past with good results their length allows them a good fix into the blockwork behind the board.

I will say here and now that I don't know if that is a recognised practice and one condoned by builders but it worked for me BUT I would be very wary about putting up a flat screen TV using this method.

Much the same feeling about this here. I'm thinking about using frame fixings as well, but I'm sure I read on these boards some while ago about a fixing designed for this type of wall and finish.........

Looks like I'll keep looking.

 

[^woody^]

As long as the plugs go into the actual block wall to the required depth and not just poked into the plasterboard, then the fixing will be OK.

A frame fixing gives little extra vertical fixing strength than a wall plug as it is only actually fixed in the blockwork by the same depth as a plug would be.

 

[Bilioustrumpstaine]

I have sent an enquiry to Fischer Systems as to what they recommend as it would be good to know the correct method.

I will post back when I get a response.

 

[JDLDIY]

I have sent an enquiry to Fischer Systems as to what they recommend as it would be good to know the correct method.

I will post back when I get a response.

Great idea, more power to your elbow. I'll delay ordering bags of fixings until I hear from you and get on with some painting then. Many thanks.

 

[JDLDIY]

Just found that Plasplugs do some thermal block fixings

http://www.plasplugs.com/fixings_thermal.html

 

[^woody^]

The plasplugs site says to use a power driver, but I think if these plugs are spun to fast, then they will just crumble the block and just leave a wider hole!

Same thing if the plug is a bit tough to screw in, or does not grip properly - it will just spin around and crumble the hole.

They look a bit like the easi-driver/redi-driva plugs which are used on plasterboard - but these do not work on aerated blocks

 

[ModernMaterials]

i would use a frame fixing (screwfix not fischer, just for cost)

say a no.10, 100mm long.

use a no. 10 wood drill to go through the plasterboard then change to a no.8 masonry bit to go into the block and keep a steady hand and no hammer action.

put a piece of masking tape around the masonry bit to make sure it only goes in 100mm.

also take the screw out of the plastic sleeve, tap the plastic sleeve in gently and screw the screw in as opposed to hammering it.

 

[Bilioustrumpstaine]

Well I have heard nothing from Fischer systems, I will carry on as before

 

[JDLDIY]

Well I have heard nothing from Fischer systems, I will carry on as before

Well many thanks for trying anyway. I noticed in Wickes the other day they have fixings for going into block. They're like frame fixings, long and come with screws, but expensive at about a fiver for a handful.