Best method to attach oak sleeper to garden wall pier to use as gate post

[Tgeorge]

I have a few 2.4m 100x200 oak sleepers which I would like to use as gate posts to hang a 6ft x 4ft heavy duty gate using two 600mm hook and band hinges.

One side is a brick garden wall and the sleeper will be attached to a pier.

The other side is a concrete block wall with 25mm foam insulation and then rendered.

I was planning to attach the sleeper to the brick wall with M10 200mm thunderbolt screws (100mm in the sleeper countersunk and 100mm in the brick). The sleeper will be resting on the ground. 2 screws on top, 1 in the middle and 2 at the bottom. Will this work well? Is 200mm bolts required? Can I get away with 150mm? The gate will hang off this sleeper.

Will the same 200mm thunderbolts work for the concrete block wall? 100mm in the sleeper, 30mm through render and foam and 70mm in the block? The gate will not hang off this, its just for the symmetry and for the bolt and latch

I may want to finish the look by laying a third sleeper on top across the two standing ones to create a fully framed look.

Anything else I need to consider?

I cannot concrete the sleepers in the ground due to foundation footings

 

[Mr Chibs]

Reckon that will be heavy!

I don't think you'll get away with 150mm length bolts, unless you countersunk the bolts up to 50mm into your sleeper/frame.
If you did that, you could make a cap/plug from off cut to act as a cover the bolt head.

I've successfully screwed a softwood 6x6 fence post to wall, cut in half (3x6 final size) using concrete screws, with a couple of washers on to stop the heads pulling though, then I used a plug cutter to cover the heads. Hung a 1m wooden, framed/braced gate (600m band hinges) onto this, all as been good since install. I staggered the screws, and used around 4/5 on the length.

One thing that may not be easy will be to get the header sleeper flush on the uprights (will the opening be square?)
Decking screws could be used (200mm) or shorter countersunk again.
Failing that, perhaps a half lap joint, but it will take some cutting, being oak.

Starter for 10, sure others will be along with suggestions.

I also sat my post on a couple of cut down bits of scaffolding tubes, 1" think to raise it off the ground, to stop it rotting.

 

[Tgeorge]

Reckon that will be heavy!

I don't think you'll get away with 150mm length bolts, unless you countersunk the bolts up to 50mm into your sleeper/frame.
If you did that, you could make a cap/plug from off cut to act as a cover the bolt head.

I've successfully screwed a softwood 6x6 fence post to wall, cut in half (3x6 final size) using concrete screws, with a couple of washers on to stop the heads pulling though, then I used a plug cutter to cover the heads. Hung a 1m wooden, framed/braced gate (600m band hinges) onto this, all as been good since install. I staggered the screws, and used around 4/5 on the length.

One thing that may not be easy will be to get the header sleeper flush on the uprights (will the opening be square?)
Decking screws could be used (200mm) or shorter countersunk again.
Failing that, perhaps a half lap joint, but it will take some cutting, being oak.

Starter for 10, sure others will be along with suggestions.

I also sat my post on a couple of cut down bits of scaffolding tubes, 1" think to raise it off the ground, to stop it rotting.

Many Thanks, I will stick with 200mm concrete screws. I guess it will be a challenge to get the header sleeper square. I dont actually need it, it was just for a framed look. So if I cannot get it square I will just leave it out.
Standing the posts on the pipes is a good idea. I will do it. Alternately, I can get them about 30 cm into concrete before I hit wall footings. Maybe I will concrete the posts in the ground as much as possible as well as screw them into the walls.

 

[Mr Chibs]

Concreting them in will make the whole thing more stable, will rot over time, but it will be years away.
I was going to suggest threaded bar and resin etc, but I don't like seeing the nuts/rod when you've chopped the excess back.

Good luck

 

[foxhole]

The head timber will give extra stability to the frame.