best no solder connectors for copper pipe?

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Use push fit speedfit from screwfix. Do a dry run before you attempt it. www.johnguest.com/speedfit/https://

Forget soldering if youve never done it before and get a pipeslice to cut the pipe https://www.screwfix.com/p/bahco-15mm-automatic-copper-pipe-cutter/1838k

Measure twice cut once.

Thanks very much for the links. I also had a look at YouTube and will get the autocutter and deburr tool. I see 90% of the quality of fitting these connectors are prep work, which I guess suits me as I don't have plumbing experience but I'm quite patient when it comes prep work. :)
 
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Hopefully someone will be able to clarify this. but should he watch out what pipe fittings he is changing on pipe work used for earth bonding.
 
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Thanks very much for the links. I also had a look at YouTube and will get the autocutter and deburr tool. I see 90% of the quality of fitting these connectors are prep work, which I guess suits me as I don't have plumbing experience but I'm quite patient when it comes prep work. :)

Make sure you make a mark on the pipe so when you push it home you know you've pushed it on to the correct depth.

After you've finished open the cold tap and turn on the stop tap only fractionally, when water comes out of the tap close it .......let the pressure build up slowly to check for leaks ......
 
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No pipes are used for earth bonding any more, the mains water pipes isn't classed as a path to earth anymore (as many of them are now plastic) hence the requirement that any earth equipotential bonding that is required is now connected directly back to the consumer unit.

If you introduce insulating plastic fittings into the copper then you are also breaking up the continuous run of metal pipe and breaking up any path for current to run through.
 
D

durhamplumber

No pipes are used for earth bonding any more, the mains water pipes isn't classed as a path to earth anymore (as many of them are now plastic) hence the requirement that any earth equipotential bonding that is required is now connected directly back to the consumer unit.

If you introduce insulating plastic fittings into the copper then you are also breaking up the continuous run of metal pipe and breaking up any path for current to run through.
Not like the good old days of getting a ""tingle ""off the bath taps via your toes!!!!Jeez
 
D

durhamplumber

Haaaa ... yeah ... used to get that off my grandparents old cast bath taps years and years and years ago, when my toes used to fit inside them lol ... had forgotten that (y)
Lol.....same here..
 
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Thanks for all the advice and I finally managed to install the water softener. I didn't use the bypass supplied but used valves as I think it looked better. I didn't have check valves at the time but should I add one each in between the valve and flexible pipe ?

View media item 104280
 
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Thanks for all the advice and I finally managed to install the water softener. I didn't use the bypass supplied but used valves as I think it looked better. I didn't have check valves at the time but should I add one each in between the valve and flexible pipe ?

View media item 104280

that looks quite good actually
 
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Yup, nice and tidy ... only thing I would suggest is pop in a few 15mm snapover pipe clips and tighten it all .... always clip Tectite .....(y)
 
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In the photo, your washing machine or dishwasher hose ought to rise to just below the worktop level. (maybe it does at the other end.). Otherwise, when the sink is slow to drain it can drain into the washing machine instead.
 
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Yup, nice and tidy ... only thing I would suggest is pop in a few 15mm snapover pipe clips and tighten it all .... always clip Tectite .....(y)

I have two clips at the right side where the copper pipe joins the flexible pipe connecting the water softener - can’t see them from the pic as they’re behind the waste pipe fitting. But those clips I bought, the fixing hole is right at the center of the clips, so once the pipes are in place, it’s very difficult to fit the clips. I ‘ll have to try to find some clips that have offset fixing hole. But thanks for the advice, I do find with these tectite connectors they leak a bit if the pipe was bend towards an angel.


In the photo, your washing machine or dishwasher hose ought to rise to just below the worktop level. (maybe it does at the other end.). Otherwise, when the sink is slow to drain it can drain into the washing machine instead.

That’s the dishwasher hose, there’s slight upward angel but can’t raise it anymore as it reached max length, I ‘ll see if I can find an extension hose/pipe to raise it a bit more, wouldn’t want the waste water to back drain into the dishwasher. Thanks a lot for spotting that!
 
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I ‘ll have to try to find some clips that have offset fixing hole

Just get a few munson rings with male backplates ..... job's a good'n ..... :cool:

th
 
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