Best practice for running a mains cable from consumer unit to subfloor

JP_

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OK, so as mentioned in this thread I am removing a wall that turns out to have in it the mains cables.

I think I have 2 options:

1. Remove all the wall and leave the cable "hanging" while the rest of the room is renovated - this is a walk through corridor ... then move it into the new stud wall when that is built

2. remove all but the bit of the wall with the cable, carry on renovating the room, and then build the new stud wall, then disconnect cable and move across to new wall.

Option 2 sounds safer, but maybe will make things trickier.

Basically, the new stud wall will run parallel to the right hand wall to make a corridor, and go almost to the existing wall (that WC door is thin, new door will be wider), coming towards you in the photo

walls and power.png
 
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Mods please combine these 2 threads.

The important thing is to keep safe.

What is the time scale for removing one wall and erecting the new wall?

It's only you who will be able to assess the risk of having cables dangling between ceiling and floor while the works are being done.
 
The safest solution would presumably be to cut off power during the works, but that may not be practical.

The back box/rear of the double socket will presumably remain live during and after the works (is that dimmer switch connected?). Disconnecting the cables (where they are exposed) from the the back of socket and reconnecting the ring using wago connectors wrapped in insulating tape might be a temporary solution to either option 1 or 2.

You know your own property best, but pictures of cables and guessing where they might go from a picture is difficult.

Blup
 
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The safest solution would presumably be to cut off power during the works, but that may not be practical.

The back box/rear of the double socket will presumably remain live during and after the works (is that dimmer switch connected?). Disconnecting the cables (where they are exposed) from the the back of socket and reconnecting the ring using wago connectors wrapped in insulating tape might be a temporary solution to either option 1 or 2.

You know your own property best, but pictures of cables and guessing where they might go from a picture is difficult.

Blup
Thanks for pointing out my omission, I was trying to establish time scales/inconvenience and would have then added the info about removing socket/switch in a safe manner.
Quite right it belongs here now.
 

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