Best product for a novice to fix and skim a room..

[rossinator]

I've posted a long explanation about the 1960's ex-local-authority 3 bed-house 3m x 2.1m room I am working on at present in the project forum

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=2426907#2426907

My intention is to diy it and use this small room to teach myself well enough to do more of the same kind of work throughout the rest of the house then more on future projects. Right now I have a question or two specifically about the plastering aspects of this room.

I'm going to remove the exisiting Atrex'ed and dropping plasterboard ceiling (already tested clear for asbestos). Then screw, paper-tape and joint a new taper-board ceiling in place. I then I intend to skim all the walls as they were quite poor - a tonne of screw holes, chips, nicks, digs, and things previously stuck to them.

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I need to repair around a window lintel after the plaster dropped off while carefully removing the wall coverings. As seen in this photo:

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My immediate questions are:

1) For a beginner, what would be the best plaster to repair and make good the lintel, what depth coats can I do with it? Should I plaster in a corner edge on the window to make the lost edge back up, or by hand and eye? Then what plaster to finish over it and skim all the walls? What dilution of PVA should I use on the lintel and walls to bond, then any different dilution immediately before plastering?

2) When removing and replacing the ceiling, which has approx' 600mm joist spacing, what products do I need to have a solid ceiling that will satisfy building regs for fire etc.? This ceiling sits directly under the loft space which is still a loft, i.e. it's NOT converted. So which plaster board for going straight onto the bare timber joists to comply with regs and any particular tape, any particular mud to meet regs. Or is regular 12.5mm board and paper tape fine? I'm happy with the screw selection and spacing, board placement and already bought myself a collated screwgun. Do I need to skim a new ceiling to meet building regs (as someone on here has already suggested to me) or can I leave it tape and jointed then decorate (if I manage a decent enough finish)?

I know the result won't be great this time round, but this is a learning curve.

 

[Alastairreid]

what would be the best plaster to repair and make good the lintel

Bonding plaster.

what depth coats can I do with it?

11mm max any one coat.

Should I plaster in a corner edge on the window to make the lost edge back up, or by hand and eye?

Use a metal corner bead.

Then what plaster to finish over it and skim all the walls?

Multi finish.

When removing and replacing the ceiling, which has approx' 600mm joist spacing, what products do I need to have a solid ceiling that will satisfy building regs for fire etc.?

12.5mm gyproc.

 

[rossinator]

what would be the best plaster to repair and make good the lintel

Bonding plaster.

what depth coats can I do with it?

11mm max any one coat.

Should I plaster in a corner edge on the window to make the lost edge back up, or by hand and eye?

Use a metal corner bead.

Then what plaster to finish over it and skim all the walls?

Multi finish.

When removing and replacing the ceiling, which has approx' 600mm joist spacing, what products do I need to have a solid ceiling that will satisfy building regs for fire etc.?

12.5mm gyproc.

Thank you for the advice alastairreid, appreciated. I've been coming to the same answers the more I research, reassuring to know I am on the right path. When does the metal edge go on, and any recommended kind? Any straight edged tools that could make reconstructing the window sill more manageable? Reading the thistle website tells me to use Thistle Bond-It and let it dry before using bonding plaster, but at £40 a bucket would PVA be just as good - if so how much and when?

 

[Alastairreid]

I wouldnt bother with pva on the lintel just dampen down.

Fit the bead before plaster. http://www.wemico.com/products/EXPANDED-METAL-CORNERBEAD.HTML

Mix the pva at a ratio of approx 5-1.

 

[huddsspread]

Don't worry about bond it,that's for smooth surfaces really, you have a key on the old plaster walls, just Pva them. But what you have to watch is that once plastered,if the old plaster moves underneath, it will crack the new. In a perfect world I would get rid of all the old plaster, if your making A mess anyway.

My living room was the same, and I quickly skimmed it. Year or so later I got some hairline cracks, as the old plaster had moved slightly, even though it was solid. So sent the family away for two days, ripped it out, boarded,insulated and skimmed. And it's perfect. Oh no it isn't coz stabbing it with pens and power rangers don't help........