Skim Coat - Walls meet Ceiling

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I've battened out the walls in my extension and fixed boards to them with 2-3mm gaps. I'm pleased with the finish as they're all solid and level so I'm going to skim the walls. I have skimmed a few areas I dry-lined once (bay window and small storage room) and was happy with the results. I am however, going to leave skimming the ceiling to a plasterer, it's not a large space but I don't feel like skimming a ceiling for the first time would be a straightforward job to a DIYer -- especially as the highest point of the room is 10ft.

I'm using angle beads on external corners and tape on internals and joints of course. Where the walls meet the ceilings, what's the best way to leave the finish ready for the plasterer to do the ceiling? Wasn't sure whether to butt the skim right up to the ceiling, or tape into the joint and also go onto the ceiling as well.

Can't seem to find anything about this online so thought I'd ask here.
 
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You’d normally skim the ceiling first.
But the answer to your question is - if your’e skimming the walls then stop where the wall meets the ceiling . You are not expected to cover the scrim that overlaps on to the ceiling.
 
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You’d normally skim the ceiling first.
But the answer to your question is - if your’e skimming the walls then stop where the wall meets the ceiling . You are not expected to cover the scrim that overlaps on to the ceiling.

That's great cheers, I know it sounds simple but I couldn't find anybody asking the same question. I'll leave the other half of the tape loose on the ceiling.

The good plasterers around here are all booked up for another 4-6 weeks, so if I can get the walls done it means I can crack on with other jobs.
 
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Going to be doing this the weekend of next week. Practiced on a few half sheets of damaged board and happy with my technique and result.

This is probably a broader question, but when taping the joints (I'm using paper tape, rather than the self-adhesive scrim tape) I presume I'm applying a thin bead of plaster to the joints, pushing the tape in lightly with my trowel, then covering with another thin layer of plaster. After this, do I need to wait say an hour for it to dry or can I start skimming straight away? I'll be doing this room wall by wall, purely because two of them are up to 10ft high and as an amateur I think it'd be better to do it this way. By the time I've got back to my first joint, it may be dry enough anyway.
 
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If your using paper tape do the wall edge and the ceiling edge if using fibre tape you can just do the wall edge, now paper tape provides a strong joint but if not enough jointing compound is used to bed it in it has a tendency to blow, nowdays some contractors want you to use paper tape before a skim as its less prone to cracking in some peoples eyes
 
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Thanks both -- so it's a no to using paper tape and scrim seems to be the preferable method in this case. With the scrim, as I'm doing the walls first (against the normal method I know) the scrim should be applied to the face of the board where it meets the corners of the ceiling, and not pushed into the corner?
 
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the scrim should overlap the wall and ceiling 50/50. or any join for that matter.
Otherwise it will most certainly crack immediately when its dry.
 
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the scrim should overlap the wall and ceiling 50/50. or any join for that matter.
Otherwise it will most certainly crack immediately when its dry.

Thanks, I did wonder that but following @stevethespreader 's suggestion I just wanted to query whether or not I'd understood it. Paper tape pushed into the corners and scrim on the flat joins.
 
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It ‘s not the way I do it. I only use paper tape for artex or jointing tapered boards.
paper tape has no place with multifinish.
But that’s just my opinion.
 
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It ‘s not the way I do it. I only use paper tape for artex or jointing tapered boards.
paper tape has no place with multifinish.
But that’s just my opinion.


I have read a few say that on the plaster's forum. No these are just straight/butt join boards with 2-3mm gaps between them. I'll use the scrim tape for those. Nobody in the family have worked much with baord that's why I'm asking (my Dad wanted me to get the walls rendered and plastered the old way!)
 
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Thanks, I did wonder that but following @stevethespreader 's suggestion I just wanted to query whether or not I'd understood it. Paper tape pushed into the corners and scrim on the flat joins.
I was quoting you , if your using paper tape on internals do both sides instead of leaving the paper hanging like you was going to do if using scrim just do the wall side
 
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Just thought I'd update on this. I bought some of that Gyproc self-adhesive scrim tape and it's top stuff. Pushed right into corners so there was a sharp crease down the middle and has stuck down well everywhere. The last time I'd used some on an upstairs bay window I found the tape barely stayed on so it was a welcome surprise.
 
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Started skimming on Sunday and did about 12 sqm. Really pleased with the results -- got the first coat on quickly without messing about and then when tacky the second coat went on to achieve a really flat surface. Smoothed out with a wet trowel when starting to dry.

Unfortunately one small area only received one coat. I mixed up the last bit of the bag, applied it to the wall but had ran out of enough Multifinish to do the second.

As that first coat is now dried out, am I best applying a coat of PVA/Water (50/50 mix) and skimming over the next day? It's not a bad finish to be honest, but it's not quite level in some areas and I'd prefer to get another coat on.

PS, please ignore the gap between two of the boards on the ceiling! It's about 7mm and is the only cock-up I'd made boarding.
 

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you can either wait for it to dry and sand it back lightly or feather it in with multifinish after sealing the area.
I never water pva down , but I know most plasterers and pva manufacturers recommend it . your choice
 
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