Best solution for leveling new chipboard floors?

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I am seeking the best solution for sloping floors in a timber frame new build flat.

I won't go into the reasons for the sloping floors. A surveyor and structural engineer have confirmed it is not a structural problem.

The builder has discussed 2 possible solutions. The first is to take up the 22mm chipboard flooring and fir (taper) the acoustic battens that are lying on the plywood timber frame, then replace with new chipboard. I don't believe he intends to do this throughout the property, but just where the slopes are obvious. a couple of rooms which are within tolerance would not be touched

The second method is to but join different thicknesses of plywood sheet screwed down across the entire chipboard floors throughout the property, to achieve the level, then use a flexible latex type compound to smooth the transition between the different thickness of plywood sheets.

The builder is more in favour of the second approach and says that it should give a better finish on which to lay engineered hardwood flooring etc.

One bedroom and a study will be carpeted. The kitchen, utility room and 2 bathrooms will be tiled. The rest of the flat will have engineered oak flooring.

I am inclined towards the second solution because 100% of the floors will be top sheeted with plywood.

Is this second method inferior, as good or better than the first?

We will be moving out for the duration of the works.

Are there any issues that I should consider?
 
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I suggest..

take up the floors and do a good job, everything else is cowboy work.

how many rooms are we talking about? is the skirting down already, as they need to be taken off as well?? and he probably wouldn't do it on the second option, and depending how much the floor is out, you could end up with a stupid declining skirting board.

TAKE THE FLOOR UP its a new build!!! not a patch job
 
Thank you for your reply.

The skirting is down, but the builder intends to remove it all then replace it after all the floors have been sheeted in ply and leveled right up to the walls.

The lounge, hall, 2 bedrooms, bathroom and possible small study needs doing.

Do you believe that firring the acoustic battens is greatly superior? If so could you please explain why?

Thanks
 
It should have been done properly from the start - overboarding is a cowboy job, you do not want selfleveling compound

The builder should have done it right from the start. that is your right. do not settle for less, until you're floors are level

take a level with you, check and check and check again.

There is no nice way of levelling with pieces of ply and and levelling compound.

Back to the barebone - the joists

and firing is a normally done thing,

Actually as you didn't want to go into the detail of why the joists are not level, it would explain if the builder was cutting corners etc.

When the floor is lifted, check what he has done!!!
 
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It should have been done properly from the start - overboarding is a cowboy job, you do not want selfleveling compound

The builder should have done it right from the start. that is your right. do not settle for less, until you're floors are level

take a level with you, check and check and check again.

There is no nice way of levelling with pieces of ply and and levelling compound.

Back to the barebone - the joists

and firing is a normally done thing,

Actually as you didn't want to go into the detail of why the joists are not level, it would explain if the builder was cutting corners etc.

When the floor is lifted, check what he has done!!!


100 % agree
 
Thanks for your further comments.

The problem has resulted from differential settlement of the timber frame. There is a central concrete stair core right up through the building. As you probably know timber frame construction will shrink and settle by up to approximately 12mm per floor as it dries. As I understand it this is a normal process. The settlement should be fairly even across all floors. However, in this instance where the timber frame cassette comes into contact with the central concrete stair core it has for some reason been largely held from settling, whereas the floors spreading outwards from the core have been unhindered. This has led to a slope away from the central core for all the surrounding floors.

The kit cassette cannot be released around the core, so to adjust for this slope the approximately 60mm acoustic battens which carry the 22mm chipboard floor and lying on top of the kit cassette can be firred (tapered) to provide a level floor. I understand it would not be structurally sound to break through the ply of the kit to reach the joists. It seems to be appropriate to basically level the floating floor comprising the acoustic battens and 22mm chipboard above the kit cassette. This is one proposed solution.

The second proposed solution is to overlay the complete floor throughout the flat with butt jointed plywood. Different thicknesses of plywood would be used across the floor from wall to wall in order to level it. Due to a difference in height where the plywood sheets butt up, it is along these joins that a flexible latex type screed would be used.

Does this explanation provide a better picture? If so are you still of the same opinion that firring of the acoustic battens is vastly superior to sheeting all the floors as explained above?

I note that there is a sticky by Mattysupra in this section which describes this very approach to sheeting an uneven floor with ply.

I would be pleased to have your further comments in light of the foregoing.
 
I get it, I know about, and a good builder would have known it and would have compensate for this, i now worry for the future - I hope you have good guarantees in place

I still believe lifting the boards are the way to go, do not worry about the acoustic joists, the rubber blocks should be under the joists, not on top, otherwise your floor would be bouncy.

So what is the story with the ceiling. is that flat?
 
Thanks again. We are all on one level on the top floor of the block so our ceilings are fine. The ceiling below is apparently ok due to various materials that comprise a deep floor.

Why do you worry for the future?

There is a 10 year NHBC warranty in place.

Can you explain why lifting the chipboard floor and tapering the acoustic battens is preferable to sheeting with plywood above the chipboard?
 

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