Best way to fix door lining to thin aerated block wall?

Discussion in 'Building' started by perky416, 26 Apr 2020.

  1. perky416

    perky416

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    Afternoon all.

    I have to fix a door lining, on one side the wall will be a 75mm thick aerated block wall (couldnt get solid bricks or dense concrete blocks). Will normal rawl plugs be suitable or will they split the block? They dont seem very durable and break easily, plus thinner than normal block.

    Thanks
     
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  3. so what width is the liner?
    aerated block should be banned.
    last time i was faced with this on a new build I bonded the liner in with caberfix polyeurethane adhesive.
    couldnt get a decent fix with anything.
    blocks crumbling up like aero
     
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  4. perky416

    perky416

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    Thats what i i was afraid of .
    Liner is 131mm, will cut it down to width though so it can be anything i make it. The other side of the door liner is concrete block, i just couldnt get any in 75mm atm.
     
  5. domdee

    domdee

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    is the full wall airated blocks?
     
  6. perky416

    perky416

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    Its hard to explain. Imagine youre standing infront of the doorway. To the left is a concrete block wall (its the wall that creates the cupboard under the stairs, so it tapers down with the stairs) that the liner was fixed to. To the right, the other side of the liner, was 100mm of 75mm thick block going all the way to to the ceiling, this 100mm block was mortared to the kitchen wall at a 90 degree angle. As i took the liner out the block just fell apart, looks like it was only being held in place by the liner.
     
  7. domdee

    domdee

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    so you're filling that hole left by the origional cumbled block with an aerated one?
    And what type are the orgional ones?
     
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  9. perky416

    perky416

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    Thats the plan, the original was dense concrete, i would have used these but cant get any atm. The original blocks were just stacked, hardly mortared and wasnt tied into the existing wall.
     
  10. domdee

    domdee

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    any pictures for clarity?
    If your are just patching up 1 hole can you not use dfferent positions to fix the door liner to the solid blocks? I'd consider maybe using some of that galvanised strapping on a roll or brackets fixed to the back of the liner and reach them to the solid dense blocks. Presuming you'll be boarding and plastering the wall these would be hidden??
    Also you could line the block wall with a strip of ply first screwed and bonded the best you can before installing the door lining. you'll loose half inch of width or so but would give some strength to screw the door lining too.
     
  11. noseall

    noseall

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    If you struggle to fix through the centre of the liner and block, you could consider say and angled length of thin metal - something akin to a wall plate strap or some of the galv' roofing/joist/building metal sundries - that could be fixed to the back of the liner and fixed along the wall behind the plaster.

    We have in the past reinforced walls like this by fitting a deeper lining and dabbing additional plasterboards each side of the wall. Rock solid after.
     
  12. perky416

    perky416

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    I did a test yesterday, drilled a hole in the block, put a screw in and the block just split in half. I think im going to abandon the idea of aerated blocks, ill try and cut down some conctrete blocks I have lying around. Failing that ill just wait until this is all over. Its only the cupboard under the stairs and the kitchen that will be left without doors for a while.
     
  13. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    If you drill a hole and wiggle a single screw around in it the block may well break. Its a different matter for a series of screws holding a timber jamb, for which single screws don't wiggle around.
     
  14. 23vc

    23vc

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    Expanding foam.
     
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