Blowing fuses, need help!

[Jonny187]

Hey,

So I've bought an American DJ Nucleus Pro light, and set it up for the first time the other night with its own cable. Unfortunately, I didn't do my research and just presumed it was a standard 13A IEC Cable. Anyway, these are the specs, which are REALLY confusing me at the moment. I desperately need to use this, please help!

Model: Nucleus Pro
Voltage: 100-240V 50Hz/60Hz
Power Consumption: 155W
Fuse: 7 Amp

Please note: This fixture contains a electronic balast, which will auto sense the voltage when it is plugged into the power source.

--

SO anyway, I plugged it in with a 13A IEC connector earlier on, and now it won't work. It came on for a few seconds, and then died. I'm really hoping this may have something to do with it detecting, and then rejecting the incorrectly amped IEC Cable, but I'm not sure.

However, the following specs are present on the back of the piece:

AC230V - 50Hz
Fuse T6.3A/250V
Power Draw: 1.12 A

It also says:

-unit must be grounded
-replace with same fuse/amp

---


SO, after trying loads of different IEC cables, I changed the fuse in one to 3A, which brings the light on again. Same thing happens though, on for about 10 seconds, then this time a LOUD Beep, and off again.

Any suggestions? I'm still learning... and am reallly confused now

 

[Spark123]

The 13A fuse in the plug isn't the issue, it is only there to protect the cable. The lead must be rated (and fused) greater than 7A i.e a 10A or 13A lead is fine.
The T6.3 (antisurge) fuse in the unit is there to protect the unit, as it is bleeping you'll probably find this is still OK.
If the unit is under warranty then speak to the supplier.

 

[Jonny187]

But if that isn't an issue, why did it work briefly when I changed the fuse to a 3A, and didn't work at all with 15 fully functional IEC Cables?

If I were to buy a cable with a t6.3a fuse, would that solve the issue? I don't believe the unit is broken, simply rejecting the flow of current and turning off as a result?

 

[Spark123]

As long as the cable is 10A or 13A the cable isn't the issue.
When the unit powers on there will be a short surge which is why an antisurge fuse is needed in the unit. A 13A plugtop fuse ought to survive a short surge like this.

 

[Spark123]

If I were to buy a cable with a t6.3a fuse, would that solve the issue? I don't believe the unit is broken, simply rejecting the flow of current and turning off as a result?

Nope, when a fuse blows it no longer passes any current and the unit will be dead

 

[Jonny187]

But that still doesn't explain why it worked again when I changed the fuse in the cable? Let's assume I'm wrong however, would it then be the fuse in the unit that needs changing then?

And I don't know that I've actually blown any fuses, just that the unit lost power

 

[stillp]

Where did you find those two different specifications in your first posting?

 

[Jonny187]

One on the manual, one on the back of the light itself!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Is it new?

 

[stillp]

The unit doesn't know what rating fuse you've got, it only knows if the fuse (and the cable) is passing current or not. The fact that it did something different when you fitted the 3A fuse is a red herring - perhaps you disturbed a loose wire, or maybe it was just a coincidence.
It's worrying that the manual seems to suggest the device is suitable for UK or US use but the device itself is labelled for UK supplies. Is it CE marked?
My guess is that it's faulty, and you should return it for replacement.