Blown chimney rendering

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Alright all :)
I have some questions about a pickle i'm in, over re - rendering a chimney which is a shared chimney (which is not in use by myself and next door).
My side's rendering is blown badly and will have to be replaced and also i'll replace the flashing as well. see pics album below :

View media item 57145 View media item 57148 View media item 57146
But the problem is next doors is all good and he doesnt want me to touch it, which is understandable, as it doesnt leak or anything.
So wanted to ask if it was ok to knock off my half of the render and re-render my half? The same question applies to the flashing as well really, as would leave the back of the chimney flashing as is ok. And replace my side (soakers & step flashing) but the problem is the front apron.
Would it be ok to just replace my half with a dormer corner maybe and over lap?
The chimney Flaunching around the pot is also cracked and b******d, so was just gonna take it off and re mortar this over again. Would this be ok?
The pot is crumbling but doesnt really matter as the chimney's not in use, so will be covered over as mentioned above.

Hope you can help with all my questions

Thanks
 
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I think it would be near impossible to just do your side only. Once you start hacking the dash off you will find half of his stuff will come off aswell. You could put a grinder down halfway and hack your side off but I think the guy next door will have a case against you if he has any problems with damp in the fiuture.Wether it is your fault or not!!!! I would get some quotes in to do the lot and put it to your neighbour and try and get him to go halvers. If you have no joy with that I would go to citizens advice and ask them how you stand if you have your side done and he moans and says you caused damp in his property.It's a bit of a dilema but I would get yourself in to a posistion that you get no comebacks if the brown stuff hits the proverbial .
 
Thanks for reply Roy c. Yep that's just what I was thinking. Also if I did my side and blended in to his and then he decided to do his later on then it would damage my new bit.
Overall thinking best to do the whole lot and if he wants his side flashed then its his problem. Hopefully he'll get jealous or something my side is gonna be newer than his, & ask if he can have his side done :p
 
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Ok thought so, no problem. Could I direct to you to my other question, i posted, then regarding the crumbly pots?
 
As long as the pot is not dangerous or will not become so in future then just flaunch it, go a bit higher with your flaunching this will help to keep it stable.I would use a 5-1-1 semi dry mix for the flanching and float it all in, Some boys use a concrete mix but its no good if you have to hack it off in future so its up to you but you could put a couple of coats of Dulux weather shield or Crown stronghold over the top when it's dried out enough.. ;)
 
Ok thanks again Roy c, great advice :cool: . I thought i'd put this pic of it up as to me it does look a bit dangerous and corroded, the left pot is just as bad, and hope to get your opinion.

View media item 57233
Also i take it would be best to put a cap on when done as well to allow it to breathe? you can sort of see the old caps in the pic, dont look too clever tho :LOL: [/img]
 
Take the flaunching off and you will be able to get the old pots off. I would put 2 small pots back on and put two "pepper-pots" (around cap with holes aound the edge) these will help vent your chimmnies and keep the water out. Try to get the pots and caps from a reclamation yard as they can work out expensive...
 
Sorry need your expertise again on a couple of questions ;) .
Firstly how much roughly is a fair price to do all the work above, which is to re- flash (with soakers), re-render the whole chimney, re Flaunch the top, fit reclaimed pots and caps, and to take off all the old render, flaunching, pots & flashing plus or inc materials?
So far I've been quoted about a £1000 to do the whole lot inc scaffolding.
Also can you render over step flashing or is there another method best used when rendering is used?

Help as always appreciated.
Cheers
 
I dont give any prices on here as different parts of the country you will get different prices.If you are having step flashings they may be cut and pointed into the brickwork of the chimney and rendered down to .Or they may render over the lead and bring it up the pitch of the roof. Years ago it was a matter of coarse to render over lead after it had a few scratches in it and it lasted till the lead perished .Try getting lead away from old render that has been on it for years !!! If it is a slate roof then generally soakers will be used and sometimes they render down to the roof or they might chase a "cover" flashing into the chimney and put a drip bead over it so it can be lifted at a later stage to replace damaged slates.,Have a look around the roofs in your area and see the different ways they have finished the lead work...
 
Yep I see your points and quite agree. When you say they chase a cover flashing is this done in a straight line down the side of the chimney or is it similar to the step flashing (in sort of zig zag)?
Around here everyone seems to have work done to their roofs and chimneys due to age/wear, think its about that time! The houses were roughly built at the same time from 1935 onwards I think. All with tiled roofs.
 
That`ll be a straight cut for the flashing - the only time it should be done , because of the render :idea: But a lot of roofers do it on brickwork and it looks shyte :cry: . The scaffold is probably a fair chunk of the total cost . Roy is the man - I`ve just added a bit because I`m a leadwork plumber ;)
 
Hi all, Just took off some of the rendering on the chimney and the mortar underneath is very sandy/crumbling badly in some places (more so at the top), and some bricks are coming loose also.
So just wanted to ask is this gonna be a serious problem or is it a case of repointing?? Also the chimney will be re-rendered anyway so would re pointing be necessary? You can see the damage in the pics below:






View media item 57658 View media item 57659 View media item 57660 [/img]
 
I would rake out the joints but being careful not to rake too much out.I would point it up with a weak mix (6-1 mix with w/proofer in it) to hold the brickwork together. Then I would put stainless ex-metal all the way around it and scratch it with the same mix after "scutting " it out first with a 6 sand 1 cement and sbr mix.Then you have a base to finish it how you want it as long as you dont go stronger than your 6-1 mix. ;)
 

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