Penetrating damp, chimney stack

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Hi everyone, I have enjoyed lurking on this site for a while now and know that there is always a lot excellent advice from some very knowledgable people.

I would like your opinions on how to permanently and cost-effectively fix a penetrating damp problem. I have lived in a 1970's chalet style house since 1993 and there has always been a damp problem in the top corner of the flank wall of the main bedroom. This wall is formed from a chimney stack running the full depth of the dormer. Over the years, I have had various people look at the roof felt, chimney pointing, flaunching, and had the flat roof converted to pitched tiled. The revised roof has a lead box gulley formed above the original roof height; the original roof and felt flashing were left in situ. Hopefully the picture in my profile will help to make this clear.

I am convinced this is penetrating damp and not condensation - it is worse after heavy rain and pushes off the vinyl wall paper. I have seen wet spots appear in the plaster half way down the wall, presumably coming through the brick pointing. The chimney serves just the lounge and is now rarely used; it has only been used with a gas fire. It has what looks like a terracotta flue inside the cavity and the stack is built using yellow Milton Hall bricks. These bricks do seem to be particularly porous / absorbant.

I'm thinking that some kind of render applied to the chimney stack would stop water getting in. I'm not sure if my initial thought of waterproof render would be a good idea as it would trap in a lot of existing damp. I don't know how durable render would be - could it crack, how would it stand up to frost etc.? How would the chimney oversail be handled? Would the flaunching be over-rendered at the same time? What other options - some kind of breatheable, flexible coating, Lime render? Knock the whole thing down and rebuild with cavity trays?

Thanks for any ideas or advice.
 
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The usual problem of damp in a chimney flu is the gases that a gas fire emits contain a large amount of water vapour which condenses up the chimney. On terraced houses you often see a damp patch all the way up the end terrace wall.
 
Ok steveER I will tell you what the problem is straight away. The problem is the box gutter!!There is either a leak on the lead gutter its self or the flashings or the box gutter outlet pipe (Most probably blocked or faulty lead-work ). The reason I say this with confidence is that I am working on a job at the moment ,and I have worked on this house for 20 years,(He is the son of an archetect friend of mine) and I have done all the work for him over the years. He also has had a damp problem in his living room on one side of the wall and has been increasingly worse with heavy rain!! Well he has got a parapet lead gutter (the house was built in the 1850's)and after he stripped the wall paper off the main bedroom ceiling and found the old lath and plaster was crumbling and falling down he called us in to have a look. I knocked off the main wall under the parapet gutter and found all the joists were rotten ( wet rot not dry rot) and the roof spars(ends of) were also rotten. There were also two wooden lintols running in line with each other across the whole of the room, which were rotten. On further inspection (after a rainy day) I found that the lead outlet for the parapet gutter which ran through the 20" stone wall (which was only about one and a half inches diameter) was leaking!!! And on further inspection realised it had been badly welded in when the lead gutter was replaced ( but not the original lead outlet and outlet pipe) Now this leak was running down the wall between exterior render and internal plaster for God knows how long ! (Maybe over 20 years) so it is understandable why we could not find the reason for the damp patch
;) I have ripped out all the old lead valley, and outlet and pipe out of the wall and am reforming it with marine ply and fibre-glass and a running outlet and a bigger pipe to take the water away...I will put all photos I have taken on my album when finished.. I am sorry this post has been so long but I hope it shows you to look for things you would never have thought of ;)
 
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Thanks for your replies.

Joe - I'm certain that the gas fire is not causing the problem, it is never used. I had central heating installed when I moved in (1993).

Roy, interesting story and something I will bear in mind. But the box gutter is a relatively recent addition and the damp problem existed long before I had the pitched tiled roof added about 10 years ago. I think the water is getting in through another route. The original flat roof and flashings looked sound before the new roof was added directly on top and several coats of liquid sealer had been applied anyway. Even if the box gutter was leaking, what are the odds of water finding a way through to the original leak? I guess I need to have the gutter remade (relined?) as part of the job just in case. But I really want to "shotgun" this problem and get it fixed once and for all, so I want to protect the brickwork too.
 
I added a couple more pic's in my profile showing the original flat roof before the tiled roof was added on top.
 
Hi there

Application of a damp proof membrane might be the best solution. The membrane is constructed in a stud formation and could be applied to the wall and then plastered. The air gaps created by the studs allow the wall to dry

Can you tell us why it "might be the best solution" in this case?
 
The damp proof membrane will be handy when identifying the source of moisture ingress and stopping it. So really the membrane utilised afterwards as a means of getting internal finishes which will not "blow off" the walls. As you heat up the internal space the salts will come back through the walls and make decorating a nightmare. So once you have identified the source and stopped it then this will make redecoration simple. You can dot and dab plasterboard on this material as well as applying a finish direct.
 
just stating the obvious. Have you checked the top of chimney.
Is the flaunching good. Is there an open top. Why is there a pot if you have central heating.
Eliminate to chimney top by covering it completely with plastic and tied with cord. wait for next rain or use hose over top and check the usual spot inside. Please use better access than the scaffold on your posting, we`d be cursed using less than full handrailed full boarded, permanent ladder.
 
Thanks 2929twin, I did have a good look at the flaunching, seems pretty thick a little crazed with hairline cracks. But no obvious way that a trickle of water can get in. Other tradespeople that have looked at it and the pointing all said it was sound. If I get the whole stack rendered, then obviously the flaunching will get some attention too. I have an inset gas fire in the lounge, mainly ornamental (but a godsend when the boiler packed up last winter!) The pot had a cowl fitted when I had the roof done.

The scaffold is long gone, it was used by the window fitters back in 1993 (old photo).
 
More devils advocate.
If the stack has 1 pot [gas flue] is there or was there another pot or opening.
If its been capped and flaunched, is there an air brick not shown on photo.
I had a stack where the guy made a great job on capping and put air brick in towards top, but used the old square holed type rather than louvred. The rain ran off top, down side and into air brick, came out at bed room skirting level by old blocked in fire place.
I`m only chasing this line as I would say if the bricks are at fault [porous] wouldn`t the wall beneath be damp right across not just in corner?
We can only assume the tuck in of the valley lead is well formed and good compo. Others will have looked but did they poke/scratch this joint?
 
The central heating doesn't vent up the chimney does it?
 
seeing as all the other bases have been covered widen your search, are the aliens pssnig down your chimney?
 
There has only ever been one chimney pot. Nothing capped off or vented. Central heating boiler is in garage, fanned flue through wall.

Damp is centred in top corner, but does seem to extend the whole width of the stack.
 
So, what would be a good, long life product to seal the chimney stack?
 

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