Boarding loft for storage ?

[tony1851]

If there is a supporting wall below, somewhere near the middle, you can join or butt the timbers over that - it wouldn't be a problem structurally at that position.

You can stop the strengthening pieces some distance short of the ends because the bending stress is at a maximum at the centre of the span, and tails off to zero at the supports. The remaining (unstrengthened) joists at the eaves will be sufficient to take the lower bending stress in that area.

 

[diycooper]

If there is a supporting wall below, somewhere near the middle, you can join or butt the timbers over that - it wouldn't be a problem structurally at that position.

You can stop the strengthening pieces some distance short of the ends because the bending stress is at a maximum at the centre of the span, and tails off to zero at the supports. The remaining (unstrengthened) joists at the eaves will be sufficient to take the lower bending stress in that area.[/quote

Thanks for reply.

There is walls underneath that the timbers could sit on, but am unsure whether I would be cutting the timber right to sit EXACTLY on the wall underneath. Is there a easy way to do this as if I measure the walls from upstairs ( In the rooms) from wall to wall this is not accounting for the main outside wall when in loft. Do I measure from outside the loft then add 9 inches on to account for outside wall of house. Sorry I hope I make sense. ?

 

[tony1851]

You should be able to see the top of the dividing wall in your loft. Just pull away any insulation in the area where you guess it will be and brush off any dust etc and you should see the tops of the bricks.

 

[diycooper]

You should be able to see the top of the dividing wall in your loft. Just pull away any insulation in the area where you guess it will be and brush off any dust etc and you should see the tops of the bricks.

Spot on thanks, as I am doing it this way would it make sense to go right to the ends of the walls in loft now if can so all timbers will be on supporting walls ?

Also if I raise the floor a extra inch it will level the floor right thrugh as there is a perlin running through the floor mid span. Instead of using 5 x 2 and notching for cables to achieve this, would it be ok to use 2 x 1 batten onto the existing 3 x 2 and stopping and starting before and after cables. Then running the 4 x 2 onto of the batton ?

 

[diycooper]

Decided just to go 5 x 2 and notch. Is there a certain quality timber what I need to think of or is just normal 4 x 2 rough sawn or scant ok ?

Can anyone give a quick answer if possible as want to get ordered before shuts at 5 pm today ?

Thanks

 

[diycooper]

Decided just to go 5 x 2 and notch. Is there a certain quality timber what I need to think of or is just normal 4 x 2 rough sawn or scant ok ?

Can anyone give a quick answer if possible as want to get ordered before shuts at 5 pm today ?

Thanks

Anyone please s scant ok or does t have to be pressure treated as t for a floor ?

 

[tony1851]

Ordinary 'C16' grade timber will do.

 

[diycooper]

Ordinary 'C16' grade timber will do.

Thanks, can get pressure treated timber on Ebay here for the same price as I can get C16 scant n my local timber yard. Would it be better using this as its the same price and pressure treated or is it a waste of time and just stick with the C16 ?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-2-Tim...ies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item41609b3aad

Thanks

 

[tony1851]

Unlless you're going to set up a garden in your loft, with several tons of soil, and water it every day, you won't need pressure-treated

 

[diycooper]

Unlless you're going to set up a garden in your loft, with several tons of soil, and water it every day, you won't need pressure-treated

Ha ha. Thanks, waiting for C16 timber right now to get delivered anyway .

Cheers for advice really appreciated.

 

[diycooper]

Been doing abit more in my loft today as I can only do it on weekends. I have done all joist apart from 2. I have been landing them on the wall below (mid span), but had to miss 2 joists till got the right advice. What do you do where the wall below mid span has a door way, in as it only has a bit of timber just enough to support the plasterboard above doorway ?

 

[jabuzzard]

It's a lot quicker to simply order up some 100mm kingspan/celotex cut it up into strips to feed through the loft hatch, lay over the joists and then cover with loft boards. It is also not that much more expensive, and you loose less height in the loft and get lots of extra insulation.

I have done three lofts now, my sister's flat, my house and then my sister's house when she moved. The first two where extra timbers, the last was with the celotex. I would never again do it any other way.[/b]