Boarding over artex!

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Hello all,

need some advice quickly :eek:

I have a job coming up and i can only think of three options. It's a large ceiling about 6m by 5m and it's artexed (very thick in some places with big ridges!).

Which is the best way to do it?

1: Removed the whole lot (including coving) and reboard and plaster

2: Scrap/sand all the peaks (so that it lies above the coving edge) skim over. Is asbestos a problem??

3: Hopefully the best option! Remove all coving dot and dab boards on, skim and refit new coving? (not sure if this is even possible just hoping it is!)

Many many thanks in advance
 
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I’d probably also go with option 3 if the Artex pattern is really heavy but fix the boards through into the joists above; whatever you do don’t try & dot & dab it up there, even if you get it to stick initially, chances are it won’t stay there!
 
Really be helpful to know how old the artex is then can figure out what the chances of it being contaminated with asbestos.
If the artex is safe to work with, I'd scrape of peaks whilst dry then soften artex with warm water then scrape some more this will allow you to even the artex surface better prior to boarding.
That's if safe to use though, other option is licenced removal or option 3 using screws
 
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If it was put up before 1984 it will probably have asbestos in it but the amount is quiet low & it’s not deemed enough of a threat to warrant wholesale removal; I used to steam it off but not any longer as it’s best left undisturbed. It’s unlikely to pose a heath threat unless you start attacking it with a sander & don’t wear a mask. Up until 2006 it had to be removed by licensed contractors but this is no longer the case. Plastering over it with an initial coat of Bonding followed by a couple of coats of Multifinish will usually take care of even the deepest patterns but over boarding & a skim may be the best option if the ceiling will take it.
 
Thanks all most appreiceated! :LOL:

Forgot to mention though one part of the ceiling (which is lower) is an extension. What if the ceiling (hopefully unlikely) is concrete? Screwing into would be a nightmare!

Thanks again
 
ANd...sorry....what's the best way to locate the timbers (i'm assuming stud finder of sorts)

thanks again
 
Forgot to mention though one part of the ceiling (which is lower) is an extension. What if the ceiling (hopefully unlikely) is concrete? Screwing into would be a nightmare!
Very unlikely to be concrete; tapping it with a screw driver will soon tell you.
ANd...sorry....what's the best way to locate the timbers (i'm assuming stud finder of sorts)
There’s a bit of a knack to it but I use a small long bladed screwdriver & rapidly tap the ceiling moving across in either direction; the sound it makes changes pitch when you tap over a joist; do the same to find the next one (usually @ 400mm centres). Once you’ve located 2 the spacing for the rest of the joists is usually the same.
 
You can use stud detectors but most are not that good.
As RC says you can locate them manually if you can't get above through floorboards to find them.
They are usually about 400mm apart. I usually send a screw up in to timber one either side of room on same joist and chalk line it, so I have line to work to.
 
personally i'd take a bradawl to the ceiling and make holes until you find a joist, mark it with a chalk line once you've found the opposite end and keep going, as RC says they are normally similar distances apart so once you've found the first 2 it should be quite easy, doesn't really matter about the mess you make on the old ceiling as you're overboarding anyway.

just my humble opinion though ;)
 
If you are overboarding then remember that your ceiling will be below the lowest peak - so knock all the high peaks off or you'll have to lower the ceiling quite a bit.
 
Many thanks all, I really apprieciate all your help and comments :D
 
out of interest dario, why do you suggest not screwing to joists?

common practice as far as i know and is fine if done correctly.
 

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