Boiler Issues

[JennyLaslo]

Hi,

My boiler seems to have shut down showing nothing on the display. It's a Vitodens 100.
There is a picture of the fuse box next to it in the garage if I need to reset something and you could direct me.

The only thing I've done differently recently is use this button (between what I think is the immersion and an old heating timer) inside the house to stop the use I could see on the smart meter when the heating was off. Could this have caused it?

Thanks for any help.
Jenny

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

The only thing I've done differently recently is use this button (between what I think is the immersion and an old heating timer) inside the house to stop the use I could see on the smart meter when the heating was off. Could this have caused it?

Back track, by undoing what you have done to cause the problem, whilst watching the display on the boiler. Once you know what those switches are for, label them for future reference.

 

[gas112]

righthand button on boiler press it see if that makes any difference

check / replace the fuse in the switch besides the clock . 3amp

Your clock is in the off position make sure its calling for heat

 

[JennyLaslo]

Your clock is in the off position make sure its calling for heat

Clock is on constant (the Randall)

righthand button on boiler press it see if that makes any difference

The right hand button did nothing on the boiler

check / replace the fuse in the switch besides the clock . 3amp

You mean the switch next to the Randall? it's still working because I can hear the clock come on and off when switched. If the boiler is off, this wouldn't change anything would it?

The boiler is definitely off though and won't come on with the right hand on/off button

 

[JennyLaslo]

Back track, by undoing what you have done to cause the problem, whilst watching the display on the boiler. Once you know what those switches are for, label them for future reference.

Wondering if I can get any info on this switch. Pushing it on and off now doesn't reverse anything or bring the boiler back on. It just switches the Randall timer on.
Would it circuit out the boiler? The only reason I was using it, is because there was still a running gas charge when no heat was on.

 

[gas112]

Clock is on constant (the Randall)


The right hand button did nothing on the boiler


You mean the switch next to the Randall? it's still working because I can hear the clock come on and off when switched. If the boiler is off, this wouldn't change anything would it?

The boiler is definitely off though and won't come on with the right hand on/off button

Sounds like the fast blow fuse in the actual boiler has blown then

 

[JennyLaslo]

Easily fixed by anyone if I get the part or should I call in a pro?

Thanks

 

[CountryFan]

The left hand selector switch, should that not be pointing at number 1?

 

[CountryFan]

Easily fixed by anyone if I get the part or should I call in a pro?

Thanks

Depends on your capabilities and comfort working with electrics.

 

[JennyLaslo]

The left hand selector switch, should that not be pointing at number 1?

I was told it didn't matter

Depends on your capabilities and comfort working with electrics.

I imagine it's a fuse inside the boiler itself, possibly caused by me using the switch next to the randall 103 too often. That switch (in the kitche) must still work as I can hear it turning the randall on and off, but does it control the electrics to the boiler in the garage as well?

What do you suggest I do to assess whether I'm capable and comfortable.

Thanks

 

[gas112]

edit
1 Position is for lpg
o position for NG

https://www.freeboilermanuals.com/assets/pdf/viessmann/Vitodens-100-W-Compact.pdf

 

[CountryFan]

I imagine it's a fuse inside the boiler itself, possibly caused by me using the switch next to the randall 103 too often. That switch (in the kitche) must still work as I can hear it turning the randall on and off, but does it control the electrics to the boiler in the garage as well?

Yes it should be fed via the Randall timer.

What do you suggest I do to assess whether I'm capable and comfortable.

No, but you must have an incline as to whether you can work safely? The reason being is there is likely still 240Vac going to the boiler, unless you turn the big red isolation switch off, thus not needing to prove it’s dead.

 

[JennyLaslo]

The switch is a white one next to the boiler in the garage, that is connected to the fuse box, not red.
So there are two switches controlling electrics into the boiler? One from the kitchen inside the house and inside the garage?
What made me think this wasn't the case, was the fact that the one in the kitchen was and still is switching the Randall on and off. I thought it was purely for that.
If the kitchen switch shown above also deals with power to the boiler, this is likely what has caused the blown fuse.

 

[JennyLaslo]

Just tested and the switch in the garage leading to the boiler from the fuse box, does not turn off the Randall the way the kitchen one shown above does.

 

[CountryFan]

The switch is a white one next to the boiler in the garage, that is connected to the fuse box, not red.

Yes I know. The main red isolation switch in your consumer unit (fuse box as you call it) should kill all the power to your house, therefore negating the need to prove dead the circuit, as you’ve discovered there might be more than one.

If the kitchen switch shown above also deals with power to the boiler, this is likely what has caused the blown fuse.

It could be. You could also still have a blown fuse if there’s 2 circuits and fcu’s (fused connection units).

Can you post a photo of the switch in the garage that controls the boiler?