Boilermate 3 radiators not working
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morrismini
Why the hell would I need to do that.
I've had enough with Gledhill sludgebuckets to last a lifetime.
I do not believe you. You are just noise.
Why the hell would I need to do that.
I've had enough with Gledhill sludgebuckets to last a lifetime.
I do not believe you. You are just noise.
DrDrivel used to say that all the time.
M
morrismini
Maybe someone else knows about heating systems as well as me. I find few know the basics of them here, which is amazing. Not one knows where sludge is generated from in a heating system, including you. One thinks it is created inside a thermal store, which are non-ferrous!!!.
Because of this ignorance, companies are making a fortune charging over £600 for powerflushes. The final bill is usually over £1,000. Sludge is building up in most systems in this country because of mass ignorance by installers and maintainers.
I would prefer a thermal store with a sludge cock than a direct rad system. as if the system is neglected it can be easily got rid of and it does not impare radiator performance as sludge does not collect in them if it get to the worst.
As I, and a number of others, have written, just put a Spirotech Magnaboost filter on he CH loop return and no sludge collects and that is in ANY system. And of course make sure there is enough inhibitor, or better still have a sealed thermal store.
Thermal stores are very common now, especially with solar panels and UFH. It is not rocket science to know how to prevent sludge build up. A well designed and specified system in the first place prevents sludge inside them and the system as a whole. You should get to know more about them, as they are getting more and more common as fuel gets more expensive and people think more green. A well designed and fitted thermal store system is fit, leave and forget. The only planned maintenance is re-dosing the inhibitor every 4 years, which is the same for any other system.
Because of this ignorance, companies are making a fortune charging over £600 for powerflushes. The final bill is usually over £1,000. Sludge is building up in most systems in this country because of mass ignorance by installers and maintainers.
I would prefer a thermal store with a sludge cock than a direct rad system. as if the system is neglected it can be easily got rid of and it does not impare radiator performance as sludge does not collect in them if it get to the worst.
As I, and a number of others, have written, just put a Spirotech Magnaboost filter on he CH loop return and no sludge collects and that is in ANY system. And of course make sure there is enough inhibitor, or better still have a sealed thermal store.
Thermal stores are very common now, especially with solar panels and UFH. It is not rocket science to know how to prevent sludge build up. A well designed and specified system in the first place prevents sludge inside them and the system as a whole. You should get to know more about them, as they are getting more and more common as fuel gets more expensive and people think more green. A well designed and fitted thermal store system is fit, leave and forget. The only planned maintenance is re-dosing the inhibitor every 4 years, which is the same for any other system.
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B
billy bob
You know nothing about heating systems, you have never fitted one, are you GSR
M
morrismini
Bob, may I call you Billy?
What didn't you understand about what I wrote about sludge? GSR? They give them to fellas from the dole. Will you please post relating to the topics being discussed. It is less posts and no silly long threads which this forum appears to have.
B
billy bob
You sir, do not have the knowledge, nor the experience to be advising anyone, others have already advised the OP correctly, you are just spouting nonsense
M
morrismini
Billy, you are confused. Bob, what didn't you understand was my question?
B
billy bob
You are not an installer and never have been, you have no practicle experience of the products you talk about, people want advise from professional installers, people who have actually fitted and worked on the products they recommend, only those who have fitted and commissioned an appliance and knows how they work can truly advise on its use, you however have only read the manufacturers blurb on their web sites, how can you advise anyone on that bases
M
morrismini
Bob, you are confused. Billy, what didn't you understand was my question?
It is apparent you don't understand a lot as you do not address the question. I can't help you if you continue to babble and shout that you are some sort of super-installer and that you know everyone and what they have done.
It is apparent you don't understand a lot as you do not address the question. I can't help you if you continue to babble and shout that you are some sort of super-installer and that you know everyone and what they have done.
B
billy bob
"morrismini's information is based on what his has read in the manufacturers litreature, he is not an installer and has no practicle experience of anything he recommends, please take this into consideration when deciding which posters information is more accurate,"
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to be fair a BM2/3 properly inhibited does give very little trouble. the one at my old flat is testament to that, still going strong with no issues other than a good dose every year and a sticky ballcock every so often.
problem is customers are too ignorant to dose them and BG are under no obligation to do it under contract. guess what most customers say when i tell them they will have to pay for a £20 quid bottle of inhibitor to keep the machine in top condition? most of them decline despite my warnings. magancleans are often no use as its almost always non ferrous sludge that builds up.
of course an unihibited BM will fill up with ****e and its design does it no favours IMO.
also, the BM3 is an overcomplicated turd compared to the simplicity of the BM2. i can only imagine gledhill had a few designers twiddling their thumbs and had to give them the BM3 to design just to keep them busy.
none of this helps the OP anyway. he still pretty much has my option list to go on. if the BM/system is full of ****e he needs option 3 or he is wasting his money.
problem is customers are too ignorant to dose them and BG are under no obligation to do it under contract. guess what most customers say when i tell them they will have to pay for a £20 quid bottle of inhibitor to keep the machine in top condition? most of them decline despite my warnings. magancleans are often no use as its almost always non ferrous sludge that builds up.
of course an unihibited BM will fill up with ****e and its design does it no favours IMO.
also, the BM3 is an overcomplicated turd compared to the simplicity of the BM2. i can only imagine gledhill had a few designers twiddling their thumbs and had to give them the BM3 to design just to keep them busy.
none of this helps the OP anyway. he still pretty much has my option list to go on. if the BM/system is full of ****e he needs option 3 or he is wasting his money.
M
morrismini
Billy, you do not know me. Bob, what are you on? Are you some sort of Internet stalker. Is there a name for the likes of you?
Now answer my question. That is a start for you.
M
morrismini
I disagree. All he needs is it cleaned out and a filter fitted, and make sure 1 litre can of inhibitor is poured in the tank each year. £20 a can? Where do you shop?
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everyone has his opinion, thats yours and you have mine.
i shop at texas bobs inhibitor shop. what about you?
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