BONDING THICKNESS

[roughcaster]

Isn't it good to be talking about plastering again guys.

 

[roy c]

It certainly is RC,

 

[trowelmonkey1]

is board adhesive a no no for fixing render beads too? internally of course.

 

[roughcaster]

is board adhesive a no no for fixing render beads too? internally of course.

I've never fixed 'em on with that TM, always render dabs for render for me,, don't know about the other guys. Different the other way round, you can bed/put beading on with render dabs or plaster dabs if you're plastering the wall. It's all about cement render, not being put on top of plaster.

 

[Micilin]

is board adhesive a no no for fixing render beads too? internally of course.

I've never fixed 'em on with that TM, always render dabs for render for me,, don't know about the other guys. Different the other way round, you can bed/put beading on with render dabs or plaster dabs if you're plastering the wall. It's all about cement render, not being put on top of plaster.

I'd agree RC, especially if there is any chance of damp or condensation hat would cause the adhesive to sell and blow.

I think some people struggle to use render to stick beads, merely because they have not a lot of it.

To make this easier maybe -

-use a richer mix just for the beads, so is a bit tackier.

-make sure you check the wall first so you know where you need a bigger/smaller dab

- if there is a lot of suction, wet down where beading to give you a chance and let the stuff set rather than just dry out

- using s&c means you can't keep messing about with the bead, or it will come away - get it on and hen it is good enough leave it alone

- if you want, pin it with a couple of nails just to hold it till it sets.

-heads are harder , which is where a bit of doping cones in handy!

The general rule of thumb is this -

the more awkward the bead to put up, and the longer it takes you to get it right, then the more chance you have of knocking it off by catching it with the wheelbarrow or a straight edge before it sets.

If i remember rightly, and I'm sure one of the older guys will correct me if i'm wrong, the formula for this is

(AB*t)=(1/k)*s

Where AB is bead awkwardness, t is time spent

k is knocking coefficient.

The only way to balance the equation is to greatly increase s, which of course is the rate of swearing.

 

[roy c]

I usually set my r/ beads on with obo's .I use inch and half obo nails and pin them right in the corner of the diamond mesh,I tap them in so they just grab and plumb one side them pin the other side then throw some muck on in between the nails. When this goes off you can pull the nails out or just carry on coat the wall work around the nails and pull them out when the muck picks up ...Also if there are a few openings on the same elevation (doors and windows ) I run a string through top and bottom of openings at finished render depth and put my beads to the string...Obviously this is for metal beads but its the same process on plastic, just have to be a bit more careful pulling the nails out!!!

I have also put the beads on with small masonary nails with washers on them. The smaller the better I hold them with a pair of small round nose pliers and tap them home . I've had many a black finger or thumb nail using these little bu##ers

 

[noseall]

A i'll chip the wall/plaster with claw of a hammer,, literally hundreds of times, about 2 or 3 feet above and around the rad', to give a good mechanical key,

We call that "sparrowpecking", (use a tacking/lathing hammer as well) I generally do that whenever going over old work, reskims etc

We call it scutching. Carried out using a scutching hammer with replaceable scutches.

Orrible job.

 

[NickB_99]

I usually set my r/ beads on with obo's .I use inch and half obo nails

Sorry Roy - for the uneducated of us - what are obo nails ?

 

[Alastairreid]

obo...........masonry nails.

 

[NickB_99]

obo...........masonry nails.

Thanks Alastair