Bosh Tumble drier not heating
- Thread starter marb
- Start date
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Posting model number, FD number and serial number helps us to provide possible causes
Without this any answer would be generic speculation.
Does the drum turn
Does the heater get warm
Is it a condensor or vented dryer
Manual or electronic programmer
The more info you post the more likely you are to get decent help
Without this any answer would be generic speculation.
Does the drum turn
Does the heater get warm
Is it a condensor or vented dryer
Manual or electronic programmer
The more info you post the more likely you are to get decent help
Model number still helps us identify your specific model so we can advise you better
On vented dryers the heater not working is usually down to the thermal switches tripping on the heater. Normally down to blocked vent pipes or grills this leads to restricted air flow.
Does the fan blow air through the machine out the vent.
The motor start capacitor is possibly going low in value hence the machine sometimes needing a little 'push'
On vented dryers the heater not working is usually down to the thermal switches tripping on the heater. Normally down to blocked vent pipes or grills this leads to restricted air flow.
Does the fan blow air through the machine out the vent.
The motor start capacitor is possibly going low in value hence the machine sometimes needing a little 'push'
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Ok will say this once
Many of us are engineers and we can pull up some specific diagrams, types of heater, layout of machine, known faults if you tell us what model you have. The FD number and serial number help us to identify if yours had known problems and updates also what batch it was as they change parts at times in different batches.
Otherwise it is all generic stuff which can waste peoples time looking for things that may not be on your model or directing you to the wrong place
The more info you provide about the machine the easier it is for people to help you. The more info on the fault and when it happens will enable better help and maybe a specific place to check.
We dont ask for this info for our health but to help you. I now wasted time explaining this for the umpteenth time when I could be getting paid to help someone (after all this is my job) or sitting having a drink with me missus and friends.
Many of us are engineers and we can pull up some specific diagrams, types of heater, layout of machine, known faults if you tell us what model you have. The FD number and serial number help us to identify if yours had known problems and updates also what batch it was as they change parts at times in different batches.
Otherwise it is all generic stuff which can waste peoples time looking for things that may not be on your model or directing you to the wrong place
The more info you provide about the machine the easier it is for people to help you. The more info on the fault and when it happens will enable better help and maybe a specific place to check.
We dont ask for this info for our health but to help you. I now wasted time explaining this for the umpteenth time when I could be getting paid to help someone (after all this is my job) or sitting having a drink with me missus and friends.
Ok, understand what you are saying and I really appreciate your time and help.
I have just tested the machine and it seems to work, blows air but the air is cold and fails to heat. I have tested the switch between hot and cooler and it doesn't make any difference. Also, the drum doesn't turn (this has been a long standing problem for about a year). My wife seems to get it going by manually helping it but it never turns on it's own accord. When I looked inside the machine the single belt is still attached and tight with no wear.
Looking at the back of the machine there a re a few numbers so I will give you all of them if it helps.
E-Nr-WTA2000GB/01
FD 8010 085302
2500 W /13 A
CLHA TYP CL 435 IPX4
I have just tested the machine and it seems to work, blows air but the air is cold and fails to heat. I have tested the switch between hot and cooler and it doesn't make any difference. Also, the drum doesn't turn (this has been a long standing problem for about a year). My wife seems to get it going by manually helping it but it never turns on it's own accord. When I looked inside the machine the single belt is still attached and tight with no wear.
Looking at the back of the machine there a re a few numbers so I will give you all of them if it helps.
E-Nr-WTA2000GB/01
FD 8010 085302
2500 W /13 A
CLHA TYP CL 435 IPX4
As I said earlier the drum not turning is probably the motor start capacitor going low and value so not having the grunt to start the drum moving (runs ok when started though)
Right it looks like yours has a heater element mounted at the rear of the machine of the ring type.
You will need to check the heater for continuity and the temperature limiters as well. This type I have been able to do after removing the top (the wiring normally goes to a connector block at the top rear.
Yours also has a mechanical timer/programmer
A little diagram you can look at is on here.
http://www.bosch-eshop.com/eshop/bosch/gb/prodp.htm?prod=WTA2000GB/01 (I know I cheated) it shows where the heater is
Right it looks like yours has a heater element mounted at the rear of the machine of the ring type.
You will need to check the heater for continuity and the temperature limiters as well. This type I have been able to do after removing the top (the wiring normally goes to a connector block at the top rear.
Yours also has a mechanical timer/programmer
A little diagram you can look at is on here.
http://www.bosch-eshop.com/eshop/bosch/gb/prodp.htm?prod=WTA2000GB/01 (I know I cheated) it shows where the heater is
Yours has a twin solid element, both parts need testing for continuity.
It does not show it but some of this type have a rubber or plastic cover on the rear which is a re set for the thermal trip (very rarely now it may just be a open push switch)
It does not show it but some of this type have a rubber or plastic cover on the rear which is a re set for the thermal trip (very rarely now it may just be a open push switch)
Ok so you are probably left with a failing motor start capacitor (mounted on the motor and costs a few quid)
The heater cut outs usually trip if there is a restriction of the airflow.
Check all the vent pipes and outlets for fluff build ups (including the wall vent if thats where it goes) otherwse it may have tripped due to the motor not running (the fan is mounted on the motor so no motor action no fan blowing air around the system and the heater overheats)
The heater cut outs usually trip if there is a restriction of the airflow.
Check all the vent pipes and outlets for fluff build ups (including the wall vent if thats where it goes) otherwse it may have tripped due to the motor not running (the fan is mounted on the motor so no motor action no fan blowing air around the system and the heater overheats)
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