Brand New Air Compressor Failed Twice - bad power feed?

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I have bought fully refurbed air compressor last month but it failed twice. I am no electrician and I would appreciate your input!

It is Sealey SA22503, 3hp with 50 liter tank, 230V 1ph, 9.3A input with the plug go into the domestic wall socket. The socket is about 5m from the main fuse board and I used 5m extension cable (with no reel) which is unwound. After I started to use it for the first time for sand blasting about 30 min., it slowed down while it was pumping and it stopped. The fuse on the compressor cable socket as well as fuse on the extension cable were blown, the main circuit breaker on our flat has tripped, too. Strangely, overload button on the compressor didn't popped out....

I have sent it back to the manufacturer for warranty repair, they fitted new stator and rotor, it came back. BUT after 45min start using it, it failed again! :eek: This time the over load button popped out, the fuse are blown again but breaker of flat didn't tripped. I am a bit surprised as I have used similar compressor but 2 hp from Machinemart before with similar set up but it never failed.

The chap from the shop is very nice and offered me another warranty repair by manufacturer but he pointed out that it is rare that it failed twice. I just wanted to make sure if my flat power supply is good enough - I don't think I can ask for repair next time.

How can I check the current on the socket - I have circuit tester up to 10A. Should I use a socket attached to the cookers switch? To use the kit in our garden, I must use an extension cable (unwound) - do you have any recommendation? Any tip or comment would be very much appreciated.
 
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The only way you will know for certain, is to measure the current drawn by the compressor either with a clamp meter or ampmeter connected in line, but if you do not have problems with the extension cable being used on other appliances or tools, then my money would be on the compressor being faulty.
 
I would think more likely due to use you are putting compressor too. The unit may not be continuous rated and grit/bead blasting (Sand not allowed any more) many mean the compressor over heats.
Cheaper compressors may not have same protection devices as fitted to commercial units.
 
I would think more likely due to use you are putting compressor too. The unit may not be continuous rated and grit/bead blasting (Sand not allowed any more) many mean the compressor over heats.
Cheaper compressors may not have same protection devices as fitted to commercial units.
Can you tell me when & why sand started to be "not allowed anymore" & do you mean for commercial uses or DIY aswell? Thanks
 
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If you’ve been using sand, stop immediately :eek: ; if you haven’t been wearing an air fed mask your exposing yourself (& your neighbours) to a very serious risk of contracting silicosis which is on a par with asbestosis; you could be running the risk of a painful death in years to come :cry:

Couple of links for you;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandblasting
http://www.healthandsafetyprofessio...rs-exposed-to-silica-during-sandblasting.html

I suspect the compressor motor windings are underrated for the size of the piston compressor, drawing too much current & overheating to the point it self destructs. Only other thing I can think that would damage it is possibly over/under voltage supply but quiet why that would be the case I’ve no idea unless there is a problem with your local supply.

Small direct drive compressors are OK for blowing up car tyres but if you want serious, continuous use from a compressor, change the direct drive unit for a decent belt driven one. I’ve had a large Clarke unit for 20 years now & it’ll bash away all day & every day without a hint of complaint. ;)
 
I wonder what glass beads are made out of :LOL: :D

Chemical Composition
SiO2 - 72%
Na2O - 13%
CaO - 5%
MgO - 4%
K2O - 3%
AL2O3 - 1%

you don't get them breaking into a fine dust that you breathe in though..


I see :D I love that HSE article banging on about silica containing sand arrrgh, shock horror, not sand with silica in it.
 
Thank you very much for you guys comment, much appreciated!

The only way you will know for certain, is to measure the current drawn by the compressor either with a clamp meter or ampmeter connected in line, but if you do not have problems with the extension cable being used on other appliances or tools, then my money would be on the compressor being faulty.
Yes that's what I thought however, I can't believe that newly refurbished by manufacturer can fail twice in raw - that's why I start questioning the power supply. On the other hand if the compressor is not suitable for my job, I may need to replace the compressor with other type. Thanks for your comment.

I would think more likely due to use you are putting compressor too. The unit may not be continuous rated and grit/bead blasting (Sand not allowed any more) many mean the compressor over heats.
Cheaper compressors may not have same protection devices as fitted to commercial units.
That is also my fear that this compressor is not good for sand/shot/grit blasting. For the second time, I try to stop the work occasionally so that compressor doesn't have to pump continually but it still happened. When I spoken to the shop, I said I was using for blasting but there was no question about it. The compressor was very hot, as you mention. As you pointed out compare to industrial machine I have used at work, this model may not be suitable for the type of job I am doing at home.

Small direct drive compressors are OK for blowing up car tyres but if you want serious, continuous use from a compressor, change the direct drive unit for a decent belt driven one. I’ve had a large Clarke unit for 20 years now & it’ll bash away all day & every day without a hint of complaint. ;)
You have spotted the feeling I had in my mind - do you think the direct drive has its weakness compare to traditional belt drive? May be over heat easily? Only the reason I chose this model is that in order to do blasting at home, I need 3hp and small one at reasonable cost. May be I should use industrial one at work for blasting and other diy task I should do with belt drive unit.

Can I ask you guys opinion on extension reel? I understand that the compressor should be directly connected to the wall socket. If that not possible, I want to buy good quality extension cable or reel (unwound when used) with minimum drop of current. Do you guys have any opinion? Should I use kitchen cooker socket if available?
 
I would think more likely due to use you are putting compressor too. The unit may not be continuous rated and grit/bead blasting (Sand not allowed any more) many mean the compressor over heats.
Cheaper compressors may not have same protection devices as fitted to commercial units.
Can you tell me when & why sand started to be "not allowed anymore" & do you mean for commercial uses or DIY aswell? Thanks

Silicosis but I see already answered. Don't know when bad started but 1984 when I returned from Algeria it was banned. If you have seen pictures no way would you use it.

As to cycle times on compressors even the large commercial units will often not run on a 100% duty cycle but normally they have some sensors to shut them down on over heat.

As to direct drive the screw compressors I used were all direct drive and worked fine. We had three each with 63A three phase supply. But they had all sorts of sensors and oil recovery systems and to compare a small domestic unit to them is unfair.

Any volt drop will result in the likely hood of extra heat and one would not normally run small compressors from extension leads.
 
As to direct drive the screw compressors I used were all direct drive and worked fine. We had three each with 63A three phase supply.
You can’t possibly compare a direct drive screw or vane compressor with what the OP has; direct drive piston units are generally carp!

Any volt drop will result in the likely hood of extra heat and one would not normally run small compressors from extension leads.
This is true but should never be enough to effect a meltdown on the motor windings unless they are marginal in the first place. My compressor actually runs on a 3m extension lead from Dixon’s (or somewhere equally mundane!) & although it has a 50 litre receiver, I’ve hammered it into the ground over the years; I’ve made demands on it that far exceed it’s paper spec. but it still keeps on going, sometimes running continuously for hours on end.
 

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