Brick Inspection Chamber - Attaching new plastic soil pipe to clay joint?

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone could help with a problem thats come up when fitting a new shower, toilet & sink to a downstairs room?

I need to find a way to attach the new soil pipe to the inspection chamber but the existing soil pipe line goes from plastic to clay and it's a bit puzzling how to connect the new soil pipe to the old pipe works setup.


The new soil pipe needs to come from the hole that can be seen in the far right of the above photo (on the edge of the walls pebble dash)

Some one said a boss strap is not suitable for underground connections because of ground movement, so now I was wondering if there was any other way to solve this problem?

 

Where is the existing inspection chamber? How deep is it.

 

It is on the left in the second picture.

The invert level seems to be about 500 mm

 

Has the wall had external insulation fitted ? I would re run it all by shortening the underground pipe , then rise up against the wall with a branch full size 110mm to the WC

 

Thanks for your replies.

In answer to the questions:

The wall of the house has had external insolation fitted.

The external inspection chamber is the one shown in one of the photos, I'm not sure how deep it is as I've not opened it and I've not dug to the bottom of it.


I had thought to change the clay underground pipe that's connected to the chamber and replace it with a shorter one but then realised the clay pipe is cemented where it joins to the chamber.

How would I remove it and change it? Is there any easyer way to solve the problem?

Thanks

 

You'll have to step grind it to create a spigot to which you can add a fernco and then any plastic fittings you may need. A Y connector would give you the provision for another branch.

 

Your post mentions toilet so how would you have used a 2" strap on boss to have done that?

 

I'm not sure, looking at the position of that chamber, there is very little clayware there to play with between that existing bend, and the chamber. I think the only option is going to be a new connection straight into the chamber.

 

When I look at a picture like that I think of how I would tackle the problem myself.

Knowing what you planned to attach would make it easier to understand what you what to do. Toilets, without a macerator, normally need a full bore 110 mm pipe.

As Hugh says, I think that you may have no option but to make a new connection into the chamber.

 

To be honest Tony, to put a toilet that distance from the chamber, anyone even contemplating a macerator needs shooting.

 

Did a similar job a few years ago,dug out to expose the existing pipe like above.Asked building control (independent) what he would pass.

Very quick answer was "the new drain has to go into the chamber only". Something to do with a blockage risk increase and something else,cant remember.

DMA have you consulted building control ?

 

The plan was to put a 110mm pipe.

I have not spoke with building control, its my bro in-laws house, would I still need to speak with building control?


If I want to make a new connection directly into the chamber, how would be the best/quickest way to do it?

Would it be to knock out the old clay one and then put a new pipe in? Or could you drill through the chamber brick wall to make a new inlet?


Thanks

 

Building Control will need to be involved as it's work on the drainage system. Can you get a pic of inside the chamber, to see what room there is? Foul connections have to be done correctly to avoid splashing and build up of crud on the walls and benching opposite.

 

That's why I asked where chamber was and how deep! More photos pls. If it's deep enough you can put in a dumper, with permission!

 

I took a photo of the inside of the chamber





The upstairs soil pipe flows out of the top red arrow, the other arrow shows the kitchen waste (that goes out from the kitchen into a grid/drain and then into the chamber)

Do youse think the easiest option would be to try and dig out to the kitchen waste pipe and then if there is enough space on it chop out a section and attached some sort of connection that enables the new soil pipe to flow into it?


Thanks again for all your replies, its good that youse are kind enough to help.