bt master & slave sockets

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Please help an idiot :D :D

I was about to connect up a pile of telephone extension I have run throughout the bungalow, when I realised I have bought

Screwfix number 13859 MASTER sockets

instead of 19682 SLAVE sockets

Is there a simple fix - disconnect the capacitor/resistor ? - or is this a case where I return them for replacements ?

For speed I would rather modify them
 
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you need one master. you can cut the capacitor off. i would leave them (others will disagree)
 
Had a run in with BT last year over Master Sockets.

Had problems with the line so called BT in, the installation didn't have an approved BT master, first they they said was "its the master socket" and charged £90 to change it. Still had problems so called them again. "Must be a problem with your wiring", had BT reinstall the cabling, fo which they charged handsomly. Still had the same fault. BT investigated and found it was a fault in one of their green boxes up the road. Did they refund the charges, did they hell. What a bunch of cowboys.

Just beware if you are messing with masters or slavese.
 
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the idea of the nte5 was basically that they could disconnect your extention wiring and then it would be clear whose problem it was.

if you don't have a NTE5 then you should really use a plug in adaptor though many people don't

definately sounds like you just got an arsehole of an engineer from bt.
 
BT are always fine with us - I know a couple guys, and get some kit on the sly from them. Never had a problem.
 
Apart from billing last quater actually......but this quaters bill is great - MNUS £2.10 :cool:
 
Lectrician said:
Apart from billing last quater actually......but this quaters bill is great - MNUS £2.10 :cool:

strange ow u can et a hegative bill....
 
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In my opinion (and I'm ex-BT) the whole idea of moving the bell capacitor into the jacks was screwy, to say the least. It's resulted in a modular wiring system which is far more complex than it need have been.

However, if you want to convert a master to a genuine secondary, you can clip off all three components: There's the actual capacitor, a high-value resistor, and a spark gap. If you leave the last two in place though, it's not going to make any difference for all practical purposes.

It's not unknown to find even some BT-installed systems with more than one master jack. It was sometimes done when converting an older installation to modular and existing runs of awkward-to-replace cable had bad wires leaving only a single pair usable.

The main objection to not paralleling up the #3 terminals was that pulse-dialing could cause bells on other phones to tinkle. As both pulse-dialing and real bells are now something of an endangered species, it's really not much of a problem anymore.
 
Paul_C said:
In my opinion (and I'm ex-BT) the whole idea of moving the bell capacitor into the jacks was screwy, to say the least. It's resulted in a modular wiring system which is far more complex than it need have been.

However, if you want to convert a master to a genuine secondary, you can clip off all three components: There's the actual capacitor, a high-value resistor, and a spark gap. If you leave the last two in place though, it's not going to make any difference for all practical purposes.

It's not unknown to find even some BT-installed systems with more than one master jack. It was sometimes done when converting an older installation to modular and existing runs of awkward-to-replace cable had bad wires leaving only a single pair usable.

The main objection to not paralleling up the #3 terminals was that pulse-dialing could cause bells on other phones to tinkle. As both pulse-dialing and real bells are now something of an endangered species, it's really not much of a problem anymore.

Exactly. I've seen many BT installations with upto 4 master sockets with no problems.It has no effect on ADSL either ;)
 
i think adsl microfilters pretty much contain the guts of a master socket.
 
nstreet said:
Did they refund the charges, did they hell.

You need to get back in touch with BT to insist on a refund.

This scenario happened to someone I know:

Their car broke down. It was recovered to the dealer who replaced the alternator (Bill A). It broke down again within 30 miles. It was recovered and the dealer found "a dodgy earth". They also replaced the battery as it had now given up the ghost. They kept the car for a few days, put 130 miles on it and proclaimed it fit (Bill B). 45 miles later, back in the owner's hands, it broke down again. It was recovered once more, and this time it was in for 8 days. The dealer found and repaired a high resistance fault in the main connection between a fusebox and the alternator (Bill C). This cured the problem.

Now, should the owner have to pay for more than one recovery and all the repair bills up to Bill C?

No!

So get on the phone to BT vito, and insist on a refund. Now!!
 
Paul_C said:
In my opinion (and I'm ex-BT) the whole idea of moving the bell capacitor into the jacks was screwy, to say the least. It's resulted in a modular wiring system which is far more complex than it need have been.

However, if you want to convert a master to a genuine secondary, you can clip off all three components: There's the actual capacitor, a high-value resistor, and a spark gap. If you leave the last two in place though, it's not going to make any difference for all practical purposes.

It's not unknown to find even some BT-installed systems with more than one master jack. It was sometimes done when converting an older installation to modular and existing runs of awkward-to-replace cable had bad wires leaving only a single pair usable.

The main objection to not paralleling up the #3 terminals was that pulse-dialing could cause bells on other phones to tinkle. As both pulse-dialing and real bells are now something of an endangered species, it's really not much of a problem anymore.


Actualy thats the only reason for the bell shunt... to stop puls dial phones breaking the line and recharging the cap. this then makes the bell tinkle in the linked sockets... Now as no-one uses pulse dial phones there no need and no technical reaon to cut them out... They do not interfere with anything, other than certain PABX's that ove worked on that show layer 1 errors on digital phones, this is mainly because the cap can disrupt the signal and cause refections on the cable.. but thats far too deep for this...

to keep things tidy though i'd remove all other connections such as the bell shunts...


Darren
 

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