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- Thread starter PinkFloyd
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IMO if you are going to the trouble of draining the system and changing half the rad valves for new TRVs, you may as well change all the lockshields too. They are very inexpensive; the time taken will not be much longer; and presumably your old lockshields are getting quite long in the tooth. Old valves sometimes start to leak once they have been disturbed.
IMO too, if it is an oldish system and you are going to drain it, you may as well circulate a sludge-loosening chemical first. Again not much effort, and it will only cost you £15 or so.
IMO too, if it is an oldish system and you are going to drain it, you may as well circulate a sludge-loosening chemical first. Again not much effort, and it will only cost you £15 or so.
It's a strange system, as to be honest some of it is old, and some new. I believe the previous owner's deceased husband was a plumber and he replaced the boiler, a radiator and some pipe work. However all the other radiators are quite old, and the lock shield valves have the old Bakelite covers/adjusters on the tops!
I think the plan now is to drain down and change the three upstairs radiators (towel rail is new) and the valves over to TRVs. I'll do the valves on the two old radiators downstairs but only change the radiator in the hall. The radiator in the kitchen can wait until it is renovated.
I'll stick some of the recommended chemical in for a week, then add the inhibitor.
I think the plan now is to drain down and change the three upstairs radiators (towel rail is new) and the valves over to TRVs. I'll do the valves on the two old radiators downstairs but only change the radiator in the hall. The radiator in the kitchen can wait until it is renovated.
I'll stick some of the recommended chemical in for a week, then add the inhibitor.
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leave the pump running continually to circulate the cleaning chemical during the clean, even if you turn the boiler stat right down in this warm weather.
only add the inhibitor at final fill, after you have drained and rinsed the cleaner, and done your updrade work.
only add the inhibitor at final fill, after you have drained and rinsed the cleaner, and done your updrade work.
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