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Building on timber wall plate

Discussion in 'Building' started by alex1269, 20 Oct 2012.

  1. alex1269

    alex1269

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    Hi,

    I am building an extension above an existing ground floor extension. After stripping back the felt roof to expose the joists they are resting and fixed on a timber wall plate. The wall plate is on the internal wall. I have been told by a builder that i know that it is ok to build thermalite blocks straight on top of this wall plate! Is this correct??

    Thanks

    Alex
    [​IMG]
     
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  3. noseall

    noseall

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    Don't be daft!

    The plate needs removing as will any roof joists.
     
  4. tony1851

    tony1851

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    Agree with Noseall - not a good idea to build masonry off timber.


    If your extension is not too large, would it be feasible to do the inner skin in timber frame, if you really had to leave the plate in?
     
  5. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    That bloke you know is not a builder
     
  6. theoldun

    theoldun

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    No! Sounds more like a Building Surveyor with a funny hat and a feather.
    Regards oldun :LOL:
     
  7. dannytylerwells

    dannytylerwells

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    "]Don't be daft!

    why do u speak to people like this?? they dont know, there not sure thats why they have asked,

    there are no silly questions just silly mistakes!,

    good luck with your build
     
  8. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    How come you speak out about that comment, but don't criticise that old bloke for taking the mick out of my hat and feather? :evil:
     
  9. alex1269

    alex1269

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    This is the reply from the builder i know!

    The timber wall plate is capable of carrying 9.7 tonnes per square foot, can't slip because it's held down by steel storm straps that will withstand winds up to 118mph.
     
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  11. tony1851

    tony1851

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    The OP must have had a gut feeling that somehow it wasn't 'right' to build
    directly off a wallplate.
    Noseall was only being direct about it and presumably reiterating - albeit in a blunt way- what the OP was already thinking.
    Remember that old saying - "if you don't like the heat of the kitchen, get out".
     
  12. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    Brilliant, he seems clued up on the bleedin' obvious

    How does it cope with a tiny weevil or and even more lightweight timber fungal spore? And then what happens to the wall above?
     
  13. alex1269

    alex1269

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    OK. Another question. How can i tell if the lintels are ok to build above?
     
  14. freddiemercurystwin

    freddiemercurystwin

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    Why not ask The Lone Ranger?
     
  15. alex1269

    alex1269

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    Most Helpfull !!
     
  16. noseall

    noseall

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    Whilst it is admirable that you have elected yourself as the forum moral compass, my post was hardly offensive unless you are of the more sensitive, narrow shouldered, wall flower, shrinking violet variety.

    I, on the other hand have elected myself as the "txt spk" regulator and would you kindly stop using it as it is both infuriating, puerile and completely unnecessary.
     
  17. noseall

    noseall

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    The lintel looks like a standard catnic boot fella and i would be surprised if it is not suitable. How much end bearing is there? The lintel will be a pre-designated length i.e. 1.2m, 1.5m, 1.8m, 2.1m and so on.

    The lintel information is usually on a sticker on the inner leaf. Remove the plaster from the lintel and have a look. A standard duty catnic is suitable in most domestic situations.
     
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