Building Wooden Wall Frames For Shed - Advice Please

[Skavenger]

Hi;

I am building a small workshop in my garden, project here. The back wall is already in place and is full height so I only need to build three walls which will be about 1m of block above which will sit a wooden frame that will be clad with T&G.

I intend to build two side frames and because of the half block construction the front frame will be a bit tricky and may be in two parts (either side of the the door opening) but have a single top stud on which the roof joists will sit.

For the timber frame I am going to use 100mm x 50mm kiln dried timber.

Looking at lots of plans on the web all the constructions seem to be similar (horizontal and vertical beams - no triangles).

Questions:
1. Where the studs meet what joints do I need? lap Joints?

2. What wood should I use - my suppliers are Wickes and Travis Perkins mainly?

3. How should I join the wood frames to the blocks (what type of screw fittings?)

4. How should the timber pieces be orientated in relation to the frame i.e. with a 100 x 50 piece of timber should the 100 section sit vertically so that the frame only spans half the block wall? Or should it sit flat so that the 100mm width of the block is covered?

More questions soon I think.

Thanks

 

[foxhole]

You need treated timber , dryed will rot quickly. Just butt and screw timbers , concrete screw will secure it to block work .
http://www.google.co.uk/shopping/pr...MIo5agwpT61QIVorftCh281A-SEAQYASABEgJiXfD_BwE

 

[Skavenger]

You need treated timber , dryed will rot quickly. Just butt and screw timbers , concrete screw will secure it to block work .
http://www.google.co.uk/shopping/pr...MIo5agwpT61QIVorftCh281A-SEAQYASABEgJiXfD_BwE

I was hoping the wood would not get wet? I had planned to cover the timber frame with 9mm OSB and then waterproof felt before covering with T&G.

 

[Skavenger]

What about Wickes Kiln Dried Pressure Treated it says pressure treated to enhance resistance to rot and insect attack although it also says "Protect from direct contact with moisture with a suitable woodcare treatment".

 

[foxhole]

Expensive option , sawn timber is all you need if it's not seen. Wicked are expensive for timber, local timber merchants may be better.

 

[geraldthehamster]

1. Where the studs meet what joints do I need? lap Joints?

Screws.

2. What wood should I use - my suppliers are Wickes and Travis Perkins mainly?

Treated - my local TP only stock regularised in the yard but you could use rough sawn if you can get it cheaper.

How should I join the wood frames to the blocks (what type of screw fittings?)

I'd use hammer-in fixings.

How should the timber pieces be orientated in relation to the frame i.e. with a 100 x 50 piece of timber should the 100 section sit vertically so that the frame only spans half the block wall? Or should it sit flat so that the 100mm width of the block is covered?

The latter.

I had planned to cover the timber frame with 9mm OSB and then waterproof felt before covering with T&G.

OSB, then breathable membrane, then treated battens, then your T&G.

Cheers
Richard

 

[Skavenger]

OK thanks everyone. I'll look out for some sawn timber and screwed butt joints it is.

By hammer fixings - I guess these.

Here are the walls that that the frame will fix on.

I am considering another course of blocks because its not 1/2 the height of the structure yet at 86cm at the lowest point. and the frame on top with a wall of this height is 1m 46cm.
If I run in another course I'll have a wall of about 107cm and a frame of 124cm slightly more in balance - not sure yet as I had considered my block building done and I have not pillared due to the height.

 

[foxhole]

Can't see hammer fixings holding in those blocks.IMO.

 

[Skavenger]

Can't see hammer fixings holding in those blocks.IMO.

So what would you recommend?

 

[geraldthehamster]

Can't see hammer fixings holding in those blocks.IMO.

They've only got to stop the superstructure moving sideways, if you strap it.

 

[foxhole]

http://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-120mm-100-pack/9008h

 

[Skavenger]

OK so I have the multi fix screws and if needs be I will also strap.
With regards to building the frame - I have done lots of research on building a timber frame but need some advice on this particular project.

I intend (as recommended in all of the guides I have read) will build and assemble the frame and on the floor but one problem I have like most things with this project the walls are not square both horizontally and more importantly neither are the square in the vertical plane. I.E. If I were to build a frame with right angled sides it would not sit flush up against the vertical pre-built garden wall. The wall is leaning inwards so the king stud that sits up against this wall will need to come forward if the frame is to sit against the wall at the top!!

So do I:

(a) Build a frame with right angled corners and decrease the width of the base to allow for the angled wall and then try and fabricate some angled wedges to fix to the wall in the gap and then fix the frame to these wedges?

Or

(b) Build the frame with a king stud angled to compensate for the lean of the wall?

I think option (a) would be the easier and less prone to error option?

To identify the distance away from the wall at the base I will use a piece of 3x2 sitting upright with a spirit level and when he wood is vertical mark the block.

 

[chappers]

build it in situ

 

[Tigercubrider]

If you have the equipment can you take a beam that will fix to the wall and trim it to be narrower at the top/ bottom to be level at the front? Then use it to build a square frame?

If it is going to be screwed to the wall and have cladding over it, fix the top and shove penny washers into the gap as you screw it to the wall and square it up.

If you build the three sides onto the half wall to large wall, once you add a ring beam to the top it will be pretty firm

 

[Skavenger]

If you have the equipment can you take a beam that will fix to the wall and trim it to be narrower at the top/ bottom to be level at the front? Then use it to build a square frame?

If it is going to be screwed to the wall and have cladding over it, fix the top and shove penny washers into the gap as you screw it to the wall and square it up.

If you build the three sides onto the half wall to large wall, once you add a ring beam to the top it will be pretty firm

I have just been out and measured it. It is about 5cm out from top to bottom, so that's some long screws, the longest being about 150mm to get 50mm into the wall and a heck of a lot of penny washers

I am more inclined to go for option (a) and make up some wooden spacers, fix these into the wall using my 100mm Multi Fix Screws and then screw the frame to the wedges.