Building Workshop

150mm above outside ground level. Internally the floor can go where you like, provided the damp proof membrane goes up the sides to marry with the dpc.

You could block n beam or timber joist the floor, after first digging out a void for airflow.

or you'll get away with 100mm for foot traffic, 150mm for vehicle traffic if concreting straight down. (plus hardcore/insulation etc.) Mesh is a must.

I see you own a spade, how's your back?
 
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ok weather is getting better and digging this project up again... one thing I was wondering... if I was to make the garage just out of single skin 7n concrete blocks would I have to render the outside or would they be ok against the elements as they are?
 
why the raft approach and not trench? the soil is heavy clay.
I am quitting smoking but I do like to smoke my churchwarden every now and then.
.
with 3 nuns ;) very nice tobacco used to take it myself
 
churchwarden is a band of baccy but I was on about my pipe... a churchwarden is a long gandalf-esque pipe :) gives a very cool smoke anywhoo back to topic
 
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I thought it was now unlawful to smoke in a forum.

I would give yourself in, first thing tomorrow morning.
 
ok weather is getting better and digging this project up again... one thing I was wondering... if I was to make the garage just out of single skin 7n concrete blocks would I have to render the outside or would they be ok against the elements as they are?

If it's tipping it down and blowing a gale (aka horizontal rain!) you might get some ingress, which means you might come to use the workshop in the spring after a few wintery months and find damp and condensation inside. Depends on how sheltered the location is really. Could give it a punt anyway and render/clad it later if need be. Just give yourself a few inches extra roof overhang in case you do decide to go this route.
 
hmm do get quid a lot of that here in stoke especially where I am, (rain that is) so looks like it is going to have to be brick outer and cinder block inner.... hate rendered walls as with the rain ingress and really cold temps it blows off after a couple of years...
 
Properly specced and applied render won't blow off. (poo-ey!)

Why are you now changing from blockwork to brickwork?

You can still have your blocks, and do timber stud inner skin with plywood walls. Sit the timber on a single course of bricks. With breather membrane to the outside of the framing, you still have a cavity which would leave the inside dry.
 
firstly for asthetic reasons (can get bricks to match the house) and secondly I have never seen render last more than 5 years before starting to deteriorate. or could I just use block on both skins? Also would I have to put in a drainage channel in with cavity wall? (within the cavity to allow any water trapped inside to drain off)
 
You can block both if you like, you start building the blocks below the level of the floor anyway, you just maintain the cavity down below the dpc

Would be better all round to single skin and batten and board out the inside.
 

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