Cable for Nest thermostat

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I was hoping to go and buy a Nest thermostat tomorrow to fit to our heating system (system boiler, Y Plan setup). We don't currently have a room stat.

I understand the wiring in the junction box in our airing cupboard and how the system works.

The Heat Link box that comes with the Nest is wired into the junction box and communicates with the stat wirelessly. The room stat is powered by either a USB plug adaptor or can be wired into the heat link using its 12v DC terminals.

Currently, the heating common and call for heat terminals in the junction box are connected with a small jumper cable, meaning there is a constant call for heat when the programmer switches on the heating. I plan to remove this and reuse it to connect the live and common terminals in the heat link, bypassing the programmers heating circuit entirely (the Nest will handle heating exclusively, the old programmer will just do water). I need to connect the Heat Links permanent live and neutral to the same in the junction box. Finally I need to connect the call to heat terminals. I haven't decided whether to hard wire the stat to the 12v connection or not yet, depends on where we want too place it.

My questions are:

* What cable can I use to connect the live/neutral/call for heat terminals? I guess 3 core + earth or 4 core flex might be suitable, but I only need about 30cm of cable. Maplins are the only local shop who sells cable by the metre and they don't sell either of these. Could I use twin + earth and use sleeving to identify the earth as a switch live? Probably not good practice I know but it wouldn't be the only misused earth cable in the JB (cylinder stat uses earth sleeved wire for the water satisfied link). Or would I be better getting a length of two core cable and using two runs?

* Whatever cable I can use, what rating should it have? Can I use flex? 1.5 or 2.5mm? It's all one the load side of the FCU feeding the JB of course.

* If I do run some cable for the 12v DC link to the stat, what cable should I use for this? I only need two cores.

As an alternative to getting some pre cut cable, I need to do a bit of rewiring in the under stairs cupboard. There's a badly fixed double socket spur which I plan to replace with an FCU so I can run a spur of that to a better located (and secured) plug socket and also a new light and switch. If I can use the same cable for this and the stat wiring then I might just buy 10m from the local shed and be done with it. Maybe 1.5mm T+E?

Thanks.
 
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What cable can I use to connect the live/neutral/call for heat terminals?
It doesn't really matter.

Whatever cable I can use, what rating should it have? Can I use flex? 1.5 or 2.5mm? It's all one the load side of the FCU feeding the JB of course.
1.00mm² will be more than adequate. Smaller if you use flex.

If I do run some cable for the 12v DC link to the stat, what cable should I use for this? I only need two cores.
It doesn't really matter.
It may be best to use one with an earth just in case you want to change in the future.

Do not use the CPC(earth) as a live conductor nor cut them if not needed.

As an alternative to getting some pre cut cable, I need to do a bit of rewiring in the under stairs cupboard. There's a badly fixed double socket spur which I plan to replace with an FCU so I can run a spur of that to a better located (and secured) plug socket and also a new light and switch. If I can use the same cable for this and the stat wiring then I might just buy 10m from the local shed and be done with it. Maybe 1.5mm T+E?
You will need 2.5mm² for the socket.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. So if I go and get myself some 2.5mm T+E from Screwfix, can I safely use it for everything I need to do? I guess it's overrated for some of these things but that shouldn't be an issue?

* Use two lengths to wire up Heat Link. One for permanent live/neutral and one for the call for heat? What should I do with the unused core in the second cable and the unused earths? There is no earth terminal at the heat link.

* Wiring double socket to FCU in under stairs cupboard

* Wiring for new under stairs light and switch (feed from FCU to a junction box then feeds from junction box to light and light switch)

Finally, what would be the most appropriate fuse for the FCU under the stairs. As well as the light, the double plug socket will probably be used to power some network equipment (router, switch etc.) as I plan to terminate my home network here. 3 or 5a?
 
So if I go and get myself some 2.5mm T+E from Screwfix, can I safely use it for everything I need to do? I guess it's overrated for some of these things but that shouldn't be an issue?
No, too naff.
It will be too big for the terminals.
For the socket:
http://www.diy.com/departments/prysmian-25mm-twin-earth-cable-reel-l5m/257134_BQ.prd

For the controls:
http://www.diy.com/departments/tower-white-pvc-cable-240v-10a-5-core-10mm-5m/188991_BQ.prd

What should I do with the unused core in the second cable and the unused earths? There is no earth terminal at the heat link.
Position them safely out of the way.

As you are using the socket circuit to supply a light as well, you must protect the socket with a 13A FCU if 30A fuse or 32A MCB in the consumer unit- if 15A fuse or 16A MCB no need - and then a 3A FCU for the light wiring.
 
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Thanks again. It's just frustrating having to spend £11 on 5m of cable when I don't even need half a metre of it for the Heat Link which is why I was hoping there was a single cable type I could make use of.

That said, I suppose I could get something like this:
http://www.diy.com/departments/tower-white-pvc-cable-240v-6a-2-core-075mm-10m/188963_BQ.prd

Or even the 0.5mm? I could use two short lengths for the Heat Link wiring and have enough left over to use for the 12v DC link if I want to.

So for my under stairs wiring, it would be: the following, using 2.5mm T+E?

[code:1]
13A FCU --- Socket
\-- 3A FCU --- Junction Box --- Light (and switch)
[/code:1]
 
13A FCU --- Socket
\-- 3A FCU --- Junction Box --- Light (and switch)
Yes but why do you need a junction box?

I don't, I'm just not thinking straight. :)

I'm thinking:

1) I could just used a switched FCU for the light and do away with the separate switch or if I want to have a seaparate switch, then:

2) FCU load to light switch, live to COM, neutral to connector block. Then cable from switch to light, live from L1, neutral into connector block. Earths into earth terminal.

Have I got that right?
 
Just be aware that the nest software is messed up at the minute because of the change to BST so it might not work as expected. They are apparently releasing a fix mid week.
 
Just be aware that the nest software is messed up at the minute because of the change to BST so it might not work as expected. They are apparently releasing a fix mid week.


lol

No thermostat to a nest is quite a jump !
 

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