Cable routing under tricky floor

[ldoodle]

Might be tricky but can you not 'chase' the concrete out under the joists?

I enclose chase in '' because you clearly can't use a grinder if the joists are sitting on the concrete, so maybe grind out a small square either side of the joist then angle drill underneath?

I would angle the outer edge of each side so you have an almost boat like shape running under the joists so you don't have 90 degree bends in the cable.

 

[iep]

Possible in a pinch but I'd hope to get away without it. As a halfway compromise though, I might use an SDS to dig a shallow recess under the joists if I can't find a point in the floor where a ripple in the concrete provides a pre-existing route under the joist.

iep

 

[Chri5]

Possible in a pinch but I'd hope to get away without it. As a halfway compromise though, I might use an SDS to dig a shallow recess under the joists if I can't find a point in the floor where a ripple in the concrete provides a pre-existing route under the joist.

iep

This years gap could be next years squashed cables. I'd be very careful about using a gap that could change due to moisture or load on the floor above.

Hole, notch or even take out some scree (caveat being depth and possible breaking dpc).

 

[iep]

Absolutely, that is main concern. It'll be combination of existing gaps, shims, notches and SDS magic. Either way, I'll be making sure no amount of 'wear and tear' can end up in squashed cables.

iep

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If the boards aren't in place, notch them where required, and get busy bending steel conduit.

 

[sparkwright]

I suppose you could drill the joists towards the bottom (as non-structural), then fit nail guards over the top of the joists for good measure.

If you want to be really anal about it you could bend the cable towards to concrete at neat right angles, and fit two nail guards next to each other, overlapping the sides of the joists.

The truth is most installations will have a point somewhere where the cables are not as much as 50 mm below the joist somewhere as there's always some kind of obstruction preventing this - though I'm not saying that's ok.