Cabling for gate opener

[Hardi]

I need to run some cable underground for an automatic gate opener, it needs to be 2.5mm supply then 1.5mm between the gates, do I need armoured cable or can I run it through plastic/galvanised conduit, it will also need a couple extra 12v cables for the gate stop photo cells so the bundle might be quite large . Any help gratefully appreciated, TIA ,James

PS From memory of the destructions I think the run between the gates need to be 3 core & eath so the bundle gets bigger!

 

[davy_owen_88]

SWA is the easiest and plastic conduit is not an option. This is notifiable work so remember to let your BCO know about it BEFORE you start.

What is the load of the opener? How far is it from the supply? Any other details we should know about to give you accurate info?

 

[RF Lighting]

Any cable running underground needs to be fully surrounded with earthed metal.

The easiest way to achive this is to use SWA cable.

 

[plugwash]

SWA is probablly the best option though split con may be easier (but its more prone to accidental damage). steel conduit with ordinary cables is allowed but your just making your life difficult if you use it. Plastic conduit or ducting is not sufficiant to protect a cable that doesn't have its own earthed metal layer though using ducting in addition to using SWA or split con can be a good idea (both for extra protection and ability to add or change cables later if they are damaged or need upgrading)

i always reccomend using a core for earth in addition to the armour with SWA, its not always strictly nessacery but it keeps the EFLI low and reduces the risk from badly made off glands. So i'd use 3 core for the supply and 4 core between the gates.

depending on the load and run length 2.5mm might not be big enough, how much power does the gate use and how long is the run. Also it might be an idea to put in an outdoor socket next to the gate especially if the gate is some distance from the house.

do they provide nice big boxes on the gate opener to terminate your SWA too? if not you might want to terminate in conduit boxes (remember to use ones with gaskets) and then run hi-tuff flex or similar to the gate itself (hi-tuff flex is fine for visible use outdoors but must not be burried).

remember to use appropriate glands, for SWA outdoors you need CW glands, for flex you should use an appropriately IP rated compression gland.

once you have your plans complete but before starting work you should check out the notification procedure with your local authority building control department and go through with it.

 

[dw3101]

Also it might be an idea to put in an outdoor socket next to the gate

Perfect for thieves to plug in their angle grinders.. Hence why all my outdoor sockets are supplied via FCU's!

And yes I know you can get cordless or a nice quiet gas axe..

Paranoid? Me? Nah..

 

[Taylortwocities]

Just doing one at the moment. You'll need at least the following:
Armoured cable feed to the control box (Gates fairly low powered so 1.5mm protected by 5a FCU in the house will be fine)
Armored cable to connect the gate motors to the control box (unless its single gate and the motor is adjacent.)
Low volt stuff like control box to the position eye Tx & Rx u could do in Cat5, Ditto control box to entry phone - it will need volts from the control box + control wires and connection to the intercom in the house - unless its wireless.
Then there might be a pedestrian access button and all sorts of fun stuff depending on the kit (CAT5 too).

You'll probably need to bury an inductive loop so gates open as cars approach the gates to LEAVE - the manfr will have the cable spec and sizes for the loop - usually stranded 6mm.

Dont forget you'll need a fistful of swa glands, IP65 boxes and some stuffing glands.

Have fun out there in the sun.

TTC

 

[Hardi]

I have decided to call in my tame electrician to tell me what I need and to connect it up and I will do the trenches and mount the motors etc, thanks for your help