Can you remove and restore old/period coving?

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A house we hope to buy is Victorian and has quite a lot of original, rather ornate coving and ceiling roses (some have been replaced over the years with newer stuff we don't care about).

One thing we might want to do down the line is line the single-layer brick external walls with an internal wall to improve insulation. This means each wall moves in maybe 6" so the covings would have to come down, be resized and re-affixed.

Is this feasible or would making this decision basically be tantamount to saying goodbye to the original coving which will fall apart when removed?
 
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You're unlikely to be able to remove it without destroying it.
You can get a duplicate profile made to order, to complete the areas of wall where you had to remove it, though this incurrs extra cost of course. It may work out cheaper (or the same) to remove the whole lot and have a similar off-the-shelf replacement fitted around the whole room. Victorian plaster coving is surprisingly cheap, typically £8/m.

Another compromise may be to strip the plaster off the walls and dry line with insulated plasterboard. It's possible this will be thin enough not to interfere with the coving.
https://www.littlehouseonthecorner.com/how-to-dryline-a-wall/
 
It makes sense I suppose, it's just moulded plaster and plaster is cheap, so a more elaborate shape doesn't really take more effort once you've got the mould made one imagines.

I hadn't considered you'd be able to get a like-for-like (or similar) off-the-shelf but if it is hard to remove then it makes sense there'd be a market for people wanting to maintain a period feel.

The only issue then is the sentimental/heritage angle - if it looks exactly the same but is a new copy rather than the original, does it matter? Which is more of a personal emotional decision. The place luckily isn't listed ;)
 
The only issue then is the sentimental/heritage angle - if it looks exactly the same but is a new copy rather than the original, does it matter?
Not if the replacement looks just as good, is made from the same materials and in the same basic way. It's really no different from having lots of coving in storage for the last 200 years and then finally installing it! Plaster coving is still made by hand using exactly the same methods of old (except no hair). You'll probably be surpised just how many firms there are near you doing this sort of thing. It's not a dying art like some people expect!
 
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I suppose another option would be to use corner drops to neatly break the transistion between original and new. i.e. the original coving would run round the room, meet the corner drops, and then continue with new off-the-shelf coving along the new insulated walls. Or forget the corner drops and simply let the new coving dissolve with the original, the different profiles be damned!
959c3c5226c70cf0b4c057dca37c9293.jpg
 
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I imagine that these changes for the purpose of insulation would probably be done to coincide with re-decorating the rooms anyway. Lots of big bold patterns on wallpaper as it's been kept decorated in-keeping with the original period; which really would be hard to replace like-for-like.
In which case it probably makes sense to rip all the coving out and replace without greatly increasing the cost (I assume).
 
Why not use Wallrock thermal lining paper, it insulates and is only just over 3mm thick, might be worth considering.
 
I don't think that's going to make up for not having cavity wall insulation... this house an EPC rating of G! An alternative is actually to build a new external wall leaving an insulation gap which I had never heard of but apparently is a real but very expensive option.

I might be mistaken that there are very smart products out there but I struggle to believe they are on a par with proper insulation, surely they just give a little bit extra for minimal cost and effort?
 
You could always try to remove it , a vertical cut around every meter and then try to work an old saw in where it meets the ceiling and wall. Without doubt you'll cause some damage and you'll also need someone to support it while you're attempting it. Dependant on the size there could be lathes behind which ideally need cutting carefully at intervals , if you try to remove too large a section and do manage to detach it whole you'll soon find just how heavy it is. You'll have lost nothing giving removal a try and it might work.
I have seen old coving or cornices reattached and repaired in situ ,and new ones run in in place almost nothing is impossible if you want to spend time and money.
 
this house an EPC rating of G!
I wouldn't pay much attention to that -they just eyeball it. My house was rated E and it turned out to be the warmest most energy efficient house I've ever known.

An alternative is actually to build a new external wall leaving an insulation gap which I had never heard of but apparently is a real but very expensive option.
You can get external insulation cladding too. Depends if you mind the change in appearance.
 
Apparently their annual gas use is 36,000kWh!

My research into external cladding suggests you can pick whatever appearance you want. But it's really pricey.
 
All original cornice was plastered in situ. It wasn't made in lengths. It will cause some damage to hack it off back to the laths. Replacement cornice can be sourced which isn't cheap and is usually made in 2 metre sections as its very heavy. Most has to be screwed up with brass screws and adhesive to do it properly.
 
All original cornice was plastered in situ. It wasn't made in lengths. It will cause some damage to hack it off back to the laths. Replacement cornice can be sourced which isn't cheap and is usually made in 2 metre sections as its very heavy. Most has to be screwed up with brass screws and adhesive to do it properly.
I never knew they made it in situ, interesting. So it's almost like it's part of the wall, bonded to the structure?
 
I never knew they made it in situ, interesting. So it's almost like it's part of the wall, bonded to the structure?
Yeah kinda (you still have to do it that way if you have a curved wall). The modern stuff is run in the same way but on a bench off site obviously (normally 3m lengths IME). No need for brass screws -use drywall screws.
coring-out-to-the-muffle.jpg

th16.jpg
 
Gerry where did you find those photos? Guy in the first photo looks very familiar , perhaps we've been on a site together?
 

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