Can you wire 6mm T&E through a 13A flex outlet to a cook

[glen8]

Hi all,

Here's the situation...

We have an integrated double oven sat in our kitchen connected through a cooker outlet using 6mm T&E. Next to the cooker outlet is a double point which we have the gas hob and tumble dryer conencted.

Unfortunately the tumble dryer has never sat flush with the cupboards because the plug behind is a few mm too thick which makes the tumble dryer stick out.

Here's the plan if it can be done...

Remove the double mains socket and replace with a flex oulet for the gas hob and a blanking plate. Then extend the flex on the tumble dryer and connect to another point further down the kitchen. This will give us back a few extra mm so the tumble dryer can be pushed back.

The question is can a 6mm T&E cable run through a flex outlet socket and be safe as it will be powering the cooker. I've already got one which is fused. The fuse I will be using is 3amp for the gas hob.

Thanks.

 

[automationman]

The question is can a 6mm T&E cable run through a flex outlet socket and be safe as it will be powering the cooker. I've already got one which is fused. The fuse I will be using is 3amp for the gas hob.

Please can you rephrase because I'm not sure what you mean?

Assuming your existing wiring is OK then you can convert a double socket to a single fused flex outlet to power your gas hob and you can plug your dryer in somewhere else but I don't see where the oven 6mm supply comes into this?

Do you mean that the double socket (the one you want to convert to a fused flex outlet) is being fed by the 6mm T&E?

Thanks

 

[glen8]

6mm t&e coming into the double socket and then going out to feed the cooker outlet.

I have removed the double socket and replaced with a single flex outlet and blanking plate. The issue is that because I need to connect two 6mm cables into the flex outlet the holes are not big enough to take the cables.

Not sure anywhere sells flex outlets with the capacity for 2x6mm?

 

[ricicle]

Hi all,


Remove the double mains socket and replace with a flex oulet for the gas hob and a blanking plate.

How do you intend fusing down for the hob ignition ?
And how are you fixing 2 single plate accessories to a double box ?

 

[glen8]

The flex outlet plate is fused. I've put in a 3amp fuse for the hob.


Not sure what you mean with the second question

 

[automationman]

If I have understood correctly you want to have 6mm t&e feeding a fused flex outlet then daisy chained to the oven wall plate connector.

I may be wrong but I doubt you will find a 13amp flex outlet with connectors that big. I am also surprised that the original double socket accommodated 6mm t&e.


Can you post a picture?

 

[ericmark]

MK fuse connection units and sockets will take thicker cable than the min required by British standard however with other makes 3 x 2.5mm or 2 x 4mm or 1 x 6mm is max.
So running 6mm cable through a standard 13A device will be hard and it is likely due to stiffness of cable it can pop out as there is a limited torque one can put on a screwdriver.
So possibly not safe.
As to current carrying the 6mm can carry 13A or 26A in most situations without a problem.
Double ovens are normally over 13A and are supplied on their own circuit. Normally 32A protected although not always 16A would normally cover.

Tumble driers are normally over 2kW and since not portable (too heavy and not on wheels) should be supplied in theory from a dedicated circuit. However traditionally they have been supplied from a kitchen ring main.

Using fuse connection units does allow less gap and MANWEB use to make some plugs which were thinner than most. However in most cases with tumble driers pushing in the last inch tends to crush the vent pipe and so very little is gained.

Under Part F of building regulations one is told how careful one needs to be with ventilation where gas appliances are used. The blowing of air out of the house can cause flue gases to be drawn into the house instead of going up the flue. Also Part P required notification of and changes in electrical wiring in kitchens. I would advise you to use registered trades men as the other method with LABC is so expensive.

 

[Chri5]

Glen- not meaning to sound rude, but you are not making it very clear.

A 6mm twin and earth cable is feeding the oven ? Correct yes / no.

You have taken out a double socket and changed that to 2 single sockets, one with a fused spur and the other with a banking plate ? Yes / No.


Are these sockets flush to the wall or surface ?


You have fused the bob circuit via a 3 amp rated fused spur with a flex outlet and that flex goes to the hob ?


Please in simple format try to help us to understand why your going on about. Dripping feeding us bits of detail and not filling us in on missing detail is hard work.

I've re-read your posts 3 times and still haven't got a clue what you are trying to achieve

 

[Chri5]

Eric

Most modern tumble drier are self collection (in to a bottle) condensing units- venting isn't required. Any that doesn't help the OP.

Something that might, is that the back area tends to have high points and lows, the socket could maybe have been repositioned so that it married to a low point- thus the unit sits back more.

Maybe the work is all surface sockets, in which case 30 mins work with a bolster and bonding could have made it flush fitting.

At the moment we do know, although you seem to have grasped more than me regarding what the OP actually wants

 

[glen8]

Thanks for all the replies, I really appreciate it.

Sorry for not being very clear, basically it was wired like this

Consumer Unit > 6mm T&E > MK Double Socket > 6mm T&E > CCU > 6mm T&E > Cooker

Because of the double socket having the hob and dryer plugged in the dryer itself would not go back far enough to sit flush. I was trying to work out how to get rid of the sockets and therefore decided on a flex/fused outlet to give us the extra mm needed.

what I wanted to do was this

Consumer Unit > 6mm T&E > 3amp Flex Oultlet / Blanking plate > 6mm T&E > CCU > 6mm T&E > Cooker


I think I've managed it though

Now got.....

Consumer Unit > 6mm T&E > CCU > 6mm T&E > Flex Outlet

(luckily the CCU could easily take 2 x 6mm cables)

I've run the cooker from the CCU obviously and the hob from the flex outlet. Now just need to extend the dryers flex to plug it in a socket further down the wall.

Initially the issue was getting 2x6mm T&E in a flex outlet but I think that was nigh on impossible not to mention dangerous so this seems much safer

Thanks again

 

[automationman]

Does this mean that you have 3X 6mm t&e at the CCU?

1-incoming (from CU)
2-to oven via wall plate/direct on isolation side of CCU switch
3-to fused spur on incoming side of CCU switch

That is still something that I personally would not do unless the connectors on the CCU were really big.

What is the total rating of your double oven in KW? I would be concerned about loose connections. I know CCUs can accommodate 10mm t&e but 2X 6mm seems to be to be pushing it a little. Loose connection = high resistance = voltage drop = heat = fire. This is definitely a situation where you should be measuring Zs with a calibrated ELI meter (Zs = live-earth total loop impedance) You should at least measure the R1+R2 resistance (remove live and earth at your CU and measure resistance while the live-earth ends of the 6mm t&e (at the oven) are tightly shorted together. Do the same for the neutral-earth. Repeat that for the spur to the flex outlet.

I know you are trying to solve a problem and I don't want to turn it into a big job for you but I would not do what you are doing unless I was 100% sure of good connections.

 

[glen8]

Two 6mm cables in the back and one at the front. The connectors easily took the two together and I was able to get loads of turns on the screw so they are not going anywhere

 

[automationman]

OK if you are sure of the connections then all should be well. In any case it is always wise to inspect & test both before and after modifying.

Loose connections are A-list celebrities when it comes to causing fires.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Eric

Most modern tumble drier are self collection (in to a bottle) condensing units- venting isn't required.

Funny how, for decades, the advice from independent organisations like the Consumer's Association was to eschew condensing driers unless you had no choice because they were significantly less efficient.

Something that might, is that the back area tends to have high points and lows, the socket could maybe have been repositioned so that it married to a low point- thus the unit sits back more.

Plan B - board the kitchen wall out 50-60mm from worktop height to the ceiling, thus leaving loads of room behind appliances and cupboards for sockets, cables, pipes, ducts etc whilst not needing non-standard deeper worktops.