Canopy roof leak

Joined
29 Aug 2011
Messages
3,670
Reaction score
345
Location
London
Country
United Kingdom
I am looking at leaks on a front door canopy, and wondering what the pro solution is? The problem came from bad placement/alignment for the eave tiles. Here's the rough layout of the tiles. I am guessing on the bits that are not normally visible externally. Blue: concrete tiles. Black: first row of tiles. Yellow: eave tiles. Red: locations of leaks. The tiles on the side edge of the canopy are mortared in place. How the other tiles are fixed I don't know. How do I find out? Thanks.

canopy.png
 
Sponsored Links
To test how a tile was fixed, I simply pushed it back. All the tiles were not nailed down and free to move, with the exception of the side edge tiles which were mortared. Here's a first row tile removed revealing the eave tiles that were free to move. The higher row of tiles were pushed back and lifted like opening a car bonnet to make room for the tile removal.

tile-removed.png


The tiles were Marley brand, with a couple of protruding bits on the under side to hook on to battens.
tile-1.png
tile-2.png
 
Last edited:
The edge of the eaves tile should be central under the first course so the lap is 50/50 aand the lap that you have is way off where it should be but, that said, you should also have roofing membrane and an eaves protector or felt support tray to give it it's posh name which should carry into the gutter. You will most likely need to strip off the first few courses and redo it to stop the leaks.
 
Sponsored Links
It's beyond my interest and ability to do a rebuild. In case I am forced into a one, any idea if the removed tile looks like something I can still buy? I just need one tile to shift the joint positions of the eave tiles. The canopy is 30 years old. It has the bare minimum of tiles and roof felt underneath. It uses the ground as the gutter.
 
If you don't want any tiles off, simply slip a soaker on top of the eave and under the first tile . On each bond . Make them long enough to form a hook over the top of the eave tile.

Fyi they are Marley concrete plain tile in smooth grey , still available.
 
Dimension of the tiles were 165w x 190h and 165w x 265h. Some square ones 265x265? were used on the sides. The tiles were reddish after washing. The colour was lost on the exposed parts.

After removing 3 courses of tiles (mortared side tiles were left alone), I gained full access to the eave tiles. To relocate them would be too much work, too much time, and too much cost. So, out came the mastics. I will apply the same treatment to the lowest row of tiles and will call it a day.

eave-tiles.png



The reason I am reluctant to rebuild anything is because of the thin ceramic fibre boards on the sides of the canopy. If I did anything at all to them, they would be destroyed and add to my hassle. What exactly is the purpose of them anyway?

ceramic-fibre-board.png
 
Last edited:
We do go again, as with the mastics. The hint of red is already shown above on the eaves, which was preserved by being permanently under cover. The red is more apparent from near by concrete slate roofs. The canopy tiles would have similar colour. Marley could be calling it antique brown. To my eyes, it's red.

hint-of-red.png
 
Last edited:
The reason I am reluctant to rebuild anything is because of the thin ceramic fibre boards on the sides of the canopy. If I did anything at all to them, they would be destroyed and add to my hassle. What exactly is the purpose of them anyway?

View attachment 343550
They are Fibre Cement Soffit Strips/Undercloaking Board and hang over - as do the tiles and then the spare between them is filled with mortor. They come in 1.2m lengths and cost about £3-£5
You may be able to re use them but so cheap to buy - best to get a couple in for possible breakages.
 
They are Fibre Cement Soffit Strips/Undercloaking Board and hang over - as do the tiles and then the spare between them is filled with mortor. They come in 1.2m lengths and cost about £3-£5
You may be able to re use them but so cheap to buy - best to get a couple in for possible breakages.
The cost is a lot more than £3-£5 if I dismantle all the tiles and unable to put them back together. I am not a roofer and don't want to be one. Although I am having to fix the handy work of so called pro-roofers.

Anyway, everything is fixed up now and mortared. The exposed fiber board edge does look tatty but I don't want to mess more with them.

What's the normal mix ratio for the mortar for roofing? I did a random 3:1.
 
Last edited:
Total bs .. the original picture you posted of a plain tile was a Marley smooth grey. Smooth colours are through colours . Antique brown is a granular finish and isn't a through colour . You obviously know nothing ..
You just make your self look thick ..
 
Total bs .. the original picture you posted of a plain tile was a Marley smooth grey. Smooth colours are through colours . Antique brown is a granular finish and isn't a through colour . You obviously know nothing ..
You just make your self look thick ..
They were making smooth antique brown tiles 30 years ago.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top