Can't find drain cock!

[gavin]

Hi,

I have an open vented ch system that I need to drain down because of hot water issues. I can't seem to find the drain cock which I know is usually on the lowest point of the pipework.

My question is (as I've only done this once in a different property so forgive my ignorance) can I use a radiator valve to hook up the hose/jubilee clip to?

There is space right next to my back door for a radiator - there isn't a radiator there it's just the in/out pipes that go either end. Can I just attach the hose here to drain down the system?

If that's not possible, where else can I attach the hose?

Appreciate your help!

Gavin

 

[breezer]

I am not a plumber or heating engineer.
So long as you can make the hose connection water tight, and you tie up the ball cock in the loft (otherwise it will never empty, assuming you have a hot water cylinder) also after you have started, undo the bleed valves of all radiaiors, starting upstairs, this allows air in and water out Downstairs, and the point you suggest is the lowest, then yes you can.

Dont forget when refilling the radiator bleed valves will still be open

 

[Jayach]

Dosen`t really matter were you drain the system from as long as the point of drain is the lowest part (assuming you want to drain the whole system)
While its empty why not install a proper drain cock to make life easier in the future.

 

[MANDATE]

To attach your hose to your fitting, you may need to make up a adaptor comprising a short piece of copper 15mm pipe and a 1/2 in tap to 15mm bend or elbow soldered together so you can secure the hose with clip.
I have a feeling the flexible pipe for a washing machine might suffice.

 

[sifu]

If you have a pipe near the door then you can buy a self-cutting washing machine tap. You clamp it around the 15mm pipe and then screw it in to cut a hole in the pipe wall. Then attach a washing machine hose to drain. It looks a bit ugly though.
Alternatively, you can buy a radiator valve and attach a new 15mm drain valve to it, then disconnect one end of a rad and attach this device to the disconnected end of the rad if there's room. Open the valve on the other end of the rad to drain. If the new valve has a different tail piece to the old one then you'll have to temporarily screw this into the rad as well.
BTW, have you looked on the boiler itself? There may be a drain point there. If the boiler's low enough (i.e. below the cylinder) then you should be able to drain enough of the system to work on the h/w circuit.