Cant heat up water in my flat?

The 3 timer clock tabs, that its currently sitting at look like they are set to off. Click the 3 tabs out and see if the output cable goes live.
 
Sponsored Links
Went and bought another timer
 

Attachments

  • 20201116_112817.jpg
    20201116_112817.jpg
    211.5 KB · Views: 65
20201116_112825.jpg
20201116_120041.jpg
Has this resolved your problem ?

Dont think so. The tanks coming on and off in short bursts. Do I need to drain the tank with circled tap (it's very stiff) then change emersion? The timer has no pins and is switched on but it's on and off for 60 seconds

There's also a current showing in electric pen on output cable from timer now
 
Sponsored Links
You need to set the clock to turn the element on for at least a few hours and then see if you have hot water.
You have the pins set in a bizarre pattern.
I don't follow the 60 seconds bit....

It's a 3kW element...not much more than a kettle so it takes a long time to get hot water.
 
You need to set the clock to turn the element on for at least a few hours and then see if you have hot water.
You have the pins set in a bizarre pattern.
I don't follow the 60 seconds bit....

It's a 3kW element...not much more than a kettle so it takes a long time to get hot water.

I wired it directly, bypassing the timer and it switched on then off after 60 secs. Must be emersion?
20201116_122155.jpg
 
The best place for a volt stick is in the bin...
Still lost re. the 60 seconds.
 
What are you using to determine the immersion heater is " switching on and off after 60 seconds" ?
 
What are you using to determine the immersion heater is " switching on and off after 60 seconds" ?

It does it connected directly (without timer) and with timer. The water starts to heat up for 30 secs or 60 secs then cuts out. When it's on it makes a noise, 5 mins later same.


Is it the tap i circled ( not sure, I'll be able to turn it as so stiff)which needs shutting off or just switch off stopcock and drain all hot water in flat? It runs from bottom of tank above to near bottom of cylinder if I'm gonna change emersion?
20201116_120041.jpg
 
Last edited:
Before even contemplating draining the cylinder and replacing the immersion ,you should test with a multimeter ,the immersion element and its thermostat . Just swapping parts without knowing what exactly the fault is ,would be a waste of time and money.
It appears that you are relying on some sound or other to determine if the element is working ,not the way to establish whats wrong !!
 
I hope it's a ground floor flat...most of us pros hate doing immersions (if that's the problem here).
 
Before even contemplating draining the cylinder and replacing the immersion ,you should test with a multimeter ,the immersion element and its thermostat . Just swapping parts without knowing what exactly the fault is ,would be a waste of time and money.
It appears that you are relying on some sound or other to determine if the element is working ,not the way to establish whats wrong !!

Asked an electrician outside electric shop how to test and tested in two places (see photos)with multi meter. On the thermostat it shot to 20 them down to 0 and stayed there on multi meter!!! I guess this means thermostat has gone and needs changing?

On the mains connection it went up to 1000 then 0 then to 16 and stayed there. So I guess this means no problem with mains connection. I'll change just thermostat. I dont need to drain the cylinder first do I? Waiting your response before I proceed
20201116_153350.jpg
20201116_153453.jpg
 
Last edited:

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top