Carpenter cutting corners when hanging doors?

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Hi all,

first post on the forum, but I've taken guidance from it for years!

I've just had a dormer loft conversion in a hipped roof. The attic is divided into three rooms due to two chimney breasts.

The firedoor at the bottom of the stairs to the loft has been hung correctly (in my opinion) where the hinges have been recessed into both the door and the frame.

The firedoor from the main room into the dressing is almost right in that the hinge has been recessed into the door but screwed flush to the frame without recesssing.

It is the non-firedoor into the ensuite that has really annoyed me as it is screwed flush to the door and the lower part of the frame, but it has actually been packed out where the top hinge meets the frame.

Given the frames were made and fitted by the same carpenter is this an acceptable finish? Is my expectation of flush recessed hinges on brand new doors and frames incorrect?

Many thanks!

Macca
 
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No, simple as that. The frame should have been made to suit the door (not difficult) and the door hung with equal spacing all round.
Re your fire doors with hinges recessed into both frame and door and the ones where not recessed to both or either, this is a bit of a grey area. In times past it was the done thing, today, well...
Much depends what hinges were specified, if these were specified at all. For instance - flush hinges (suitable for light internal door only) are not recessed. Butt hinges are always recessed into the door, but weight of door would dictate if it should be recessed into the post. I always tailed my hinges into the posts, regardless of weight, but with no regs. covering this, that I'm aware of, the whole issue at best would be arguable in my opinion...pinenot :)
 
Thanks for taking the time to reply pinenot. I'm not sure of the difference in hinges but a quick look at the images on screwfix makes me think they are butt hinges, not flush hinges.

It is interesting that it is a matter of opinion. The doors work, and they work well. But my opinion (quite possibly wrongly) is that the door could have been made to work just as well with recessed hinges, but would have taken more time/effort. Therefore this reflects on the carpenters work ethic.

I'd be very interested in hearing others opinions and to be corrected, as there is more work the carpenter if I am wrong.
 
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Frames should be square and level, fitted new very little excuse for anything else.
 
some cheap hinges don't have enough space between the leaves so if you sink them both in you finish up with not enough gap
what size is your gap??
 
Here's how I tail in my hinges to the posts.
...pinenot :)
Positions door perfectly and ensures the door is held in place.
 
On the worst door (the non-fire door to the en-suite) the gap is noticeably wider at the top than at the bottom, on both sides of the door.

On the hinge side, the gap is 8mm at the top and 4mm at the bottom.

The non-hinge side is slightly better but probably still 7mm and 4mm (I didn't measure it).

Is this acceptable?
 
Speaking personally I set my door clearances at 1/8" (3.5 mm approx) for internal 35 mm doors, fire doors (normally 45 mm thick) 3/16" bare (4 mm approx) both with a leading edge taper allowing it swing clearance.
My answer to your question therefore would be no, I don't think that's acceptable as youv'e described...pinenot :)
 

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