Carpenter required to repair wooden window

[Ant1]

I have 2 wooden windows where the bottom bit (external only) is rotten, I am looking for a carpenter / joiner to get those repaired however I have not been successful finding someone who could help.



Anyone can advise on the best way to get wooden windows repaired in the Glasgow area?

Thanks,
Ant

 

[big-all]

the trouble you have is it looks like a perhaps £50 job but may be a 2-£300 job as in remove window
infill with temporary board for security
take to workshop and remove glass
fully remove soft or rotten timber
make new profiles as required
replace missing timber corner at a shallow angle with a "L" section including a wedged mortice and tenon
treat timber glaze and paint
or indeed make a new frame and glaze its your choice but not cheap

 

[Ant1]

Thanks for the detailed answer big-all, do you think it would be possible for the repair to take place onsite? (i.e. without removing the window, the external can be accessed from the inside if the window is flipped around)

I shall have the required budget to replace the whole windows in around 3-5 years time, I was wondering what would be the most cost effective fix to last until then.

 

[big-all]

if the rot is less than it looks then yes but there needs to be enough timber to maintain the rigidity off the corner other wise any work to remove the rot is likly to crack the glass which is a possibility any way
its one off those jobs you avoid as it looks as i say like a £50 job thats likly to not please if it costs more
it will take at least two visits and many hours as the paint will have dry between coats

 

[mrrusty]

I agree - I think it's too far gone for a nice in-situ repair. I would bodge it yourself with some 2-part polyester filler (e.g. ronseal "high performance wood filler", or even car body filler which is similar stuff) and paint it, until you can either get new windows or have them dismantled for a proper repair. I think there is enough structure left for this to last a year or two.

 

[Ant1]

I was afraid it might be the case, I know someone who used a product Big Boy quite successfully, though the area I have to cover is not that small... I will think about it, to be honest I might have to go for that option since I haven't managed to get in touch with any carpenter in my area.

 

[big-all]

look for an old-fashioned joinery shop in your area take pictures and ask how much to make and fit a sash with close to but not neseserally exactly the same moulding and see what they say
by going for a close moulding they can do it without removing the sash and can use a stock cutter saving tooling costs
as tooling costs are likley to be around £80 get all rotten sashes made at the same time as that will be cheaper per sash

 

[Ant1]

The windows are actually not sash windows, one of them tilts around the horizontal axis while the second one tilts around the vertical axis. One is easily removed, haven't tried removing the one that tilts horizontally.

 

[big-all]

is there any make on them ??

 

[Ant1]

Unfortunately I cannot see any written details on them, I will try to get better photos tomorrow when it is daylight.

 

[big-all]

Unfortunately I cannot see any written details on them, I will try to get better photos tomorrow when it is daylight.

i must admit when i looked at the photo i couldt see the weather bar or the rebate at the back and i thought the big gap was extra rot in the corner
your best option is a self bodge as mrrusty says
do you have any clamps for wood

 

[Ant1]

Yep I do have pretty decent size clamps.

 

[big-all]

do you have a picture off the back off the frame covering the bottom 8-12" above and too the side off the rotten section

 

[Ant1]

I don't have any right now but will get some tomorrow, thanks for your help big-all!

 

[big-all]

if the back face off the window is not flat as in the rebate is an added on vertical bit off timber can you tell me how deep it comes out??
my plan off action is ply plate made from 12mm ply as a corner brace 12" beyond the rot doubled up iff necessary to be thicker than the added on timber at the back
then lay the frame flat on a bench or table if required with all the surface padded out to same thickness and level
but that requires the support plate to be temporary screwed on and leaving holes
the clamp option leaves no marks but leave the window ajar in situ until strength added to corner sufficiently to allow clamp removal and normal painting rules to apply