Cast iron sewage pipe joint leaks

[brushmaster]

Hello all

I've got a problem with my cast iron toilet sewage pipe that goes down the side of the house. A couple of the joins around the sockets are leaking ( see photos ) The botton two joins are lead filled but i've got up the ladder and had a look at the top joins and it seems to be a couple of rotten wooden wedges and linseed oil putty ?? I Don't lknow if ithat is the thing that is supposed to be used but it's all cracked and loose. The upper socket joins with the putty are all above the water flow line as it were. What would somebody use to seal/repair the joins?

Secondly, the cast iron pipe goes up the wall from under the fascia and goose necks up to vent above the guttering. Is there a direct replacment for that goose neck fitting as the cast iron up there on that section has holes appearing in it and sanding it down to bare metal to repair it is revealing more holes. It would be much easier for me to just remove the straight vent piece and goose neck bend and swap them over for plastic, providing there is a plastic to cast iron join avalable.
Any ideas anyone?

 

[Madrab]

Typically the joints were filled with hemp and solder or mortar. Nothing to say you cant use a polymer adhesive to remake/refill them. Clean them out well first.

As far as the offset around the gutter and soffit for the up and over for the vent, then 2x45's and a couple of lengths of downpipe would be used to create the desired offset.

 

[polesapart]

Nothing to say you cant use a polymer adhesive to remake/refill them. Clean them out well first.

 

[brushmaster]

Didn't think of using a polymer adhesive. I'll look into that. I was thinking of some sort of industrial two part epoxy putty but getting those joints really clean for it to adhere properly would be the problem.

 

[Madrab]

Any of the silicone adhesives that are available would do the job ads they cure into a very substantial silicone rubber, not like sealants. The trick is to clean and prep/treat the cast so it resists rusting beneath any of the solutions that are to be used so it lasts. Then use a solvent like brake dry clean or ISO alcohol brushed in and allow to dry just before applying to remove any last moisture/debris