Cavity Closing and Fitting an External Door

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Gloucestershire
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A little while back we had an extension built but unfortunately our builder went bankrupt before he finished the job. Lack of funds means I've been finishing the work myself but I could do with some advice on fitting the external door.

I've attached a couple of photos of what we have and a measured drawing of what I'm currently planning on doing. The wall is comprised of: outer leaf 100mm dense concrete block (light grey), 110mm of cavity (yellow) and an inner leaf 100mm of aerated concrete block (dark grey).

I'm planning on fitting a cavity closer (pink) and then fixing a door frame (green) to the outer leaf. The fixings for the door frame will be staggered and I'll take care not to split the block. I'll board or otherwise plaster over the cavity closer for final finishing. Will a 100mm cavity closer be suitable here? I've looked around and 100mm seems to be the largest commonly available size.

Now here's where things get a little unusual... I don't want a sill on this doorway if I can avoid it. The doorway leads to a workshop and I need to move machinery on wheels in and out. While this is an exterior door there is zero chance of water ingress as the whole area is covered by a roof (honestly, rain won't get in). My builders plan was just to fill the cavity at the bottom of the door with concrete and as you can see it's already partially filled with waste mortar. The DPM fully wraps the floor slab so I'm happy enough this won't cause damp issues but it still feels wrong and of course it will create a cold bridge.

Any advice welcome.

External Door Lower.jpg External Door Upper.jpg Cavity Closing and Door Frame.png
 
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This is my personal choice, unless plans say otherwise. I prefer to fit windows and doors to the cavity area so the face of the window or door is flush with the back of the outer leaf block/brick. I would have returned the inner leaf on the reveal. I wouldn't have put the 3/4 soldier course flush with the outer leaf, I would have moved it in a couple of inches, DPC behind that, then 1 inch kingspan between that and the floor. Then your door would be supported on that.

Windows and doors can be fitted on cleats but not composite doors.
 

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