Ceiling rose Problems

[Deanooo]

Hi guys,

I have a problem with the wiring arrangement within a ceiling rose.

Basically I removed the rose due to space restrictions within the new light and stupidly forgot about the switched live e.t.c and just connected everything back up with Choc blocks colour to colour, yes I know basic error!!, all was OK till I switched the light switch and I blew the circuit and the light switch.

I disconnected it all and replaced the fuse wire (very old consumer unit) powered it back up.

I have identified what wires are what by disconnecting all the cables and powering it back up, the previous rose wiring has incoming 240v, the outgoing has 40v?? and I have joined the switch wires at the switch to check continuity and help Identify which ones they are.

I have then connected them all up to choc blocks as they should be and all works fine except I lose the lighting in the living room?

If I disconnect the switch wires and earth and just leave the ring connected all works fine.

Am I being really thick here as I just can't seem to under stand why when I connect the switch wires I lose power to my living room light..

Any Ideas?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes, that's not the switch wire, its probably the feed out to the living room pendant.

 

[Deanooo]

????

Sorry not fully sure I follow you, I have 3 sets of 3 core coming through the ceiling,

1 from the previous rose
1 to the next rose
1 which is the switch in the room

I have identifed the switch wires with a meter so they are eliminated.

I have connected the 2 other sets together and I have power & lighting to everywhere.

If I then connect the switch live to the ring live and leave the neutral unconnected as the light is yet fitted due to space issues I lose power to the living room pendant??

As I have blown the light switch and don't have a spare I have temp used a choc block to complete the circuit, is this ok? as I want to get it all working fine and tested before connecting up the light as its a bitch to fit due to space.

 

[skenk]

You should have 3 reds in one terminal and just the switch wire and the light fitting live in the other.

 

[skenk]

BTW

You can make the circuit with a terminal block but the power should be OFF while you are fiddling. If the installation is "very old" then the wring could be in a dangerous condition so you should consider getting it checked out (PIR) and be very careful. 40v could be a phantom voltage but it could also indicate a floating earth

 

[TicklyT]

Did you prove your test to find the switch wires by disconecting the switch wires and re-testing it? Other light fittings either side of your test point may confuse your test results.

You only need to identify the switch lead, as the other two cables both share the same connections.

I would test by:-

1. DISCONNECT THE POWER.

2. Verify there are no mains voltages present anywhere with your meter.

3.Connect all three live wires together i a choc bloc.

4. Use the low resistance range to test between the bundle of live wires in the choc bloc and each of the other loose wires, noting the results for each one.

5. At the switch, connect the two wires together or turn the switch on.

6. Re-test each of the three wires at the rose, noting which resistance value has changed. That should be your switch cable. mark it with a piece of red or brown sleeving.

6. Turn the switch off / disconnect the wires and verify the results are the same as your first test.

7. Connect the two neutrals together in a choc bloc along with the neutral connection to your new fitting.

8.Connect your freshly marked switched live to the live of your fitting.

9. reconnect the power.

All the work is done with the power off, which is safer than prodding about looking for 230 Volts, then flying backwards off the top of a pair of steps when you find it unexpectedly.