Ceiling void clearance required for LED downlights

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I hope someone can give me some guidance on this. I plan to install 5 or 6 LED recessed downlights in a garden office I'm building.

I'd like to use LED because of the fact that they're more efficient and some have a lower profile (as low as 50mm). This feature is especially attractive as my ceiling void is quite restrictive to allow maximum headroom.

Due to the fact that they run cool, presumably the clearance above the top of the unit doesn't need to be much at all.

Any thoughts?
 
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I think that the only people who can tell you what clearance you'll need will be the people who make the lights.
 
What LEDs are you using and what fitting will they go inside?

Gu10 LEDs mirror gu10 lamps, as for fittings gu10 tend to be circa 100mm with a necessary all round air gap.

You'd be better finding and fitting surface units.
 
I think that the only people who can tell you what clearance you'll need will be the people who make the lights.
Thanks, I've looked at the paperwork (leaflets that come with) for a couple but they don't say. I'm hoping that's a good sign.
 
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What LEDs are you using and what fitting will they go inside?

Gu10 LEDs mirror gu10 lamps, as for fittings gu10 tend to be circa 100mm with a necessary all round air gap.

You'd be better finding and fitting surface units.
The shallower ones are sealed units. They run cool to the touch so I'm hoping 20mm will be fine but wanted to check first.
 
I think that the only people who can tell you what clearance you'll need will be the people who make the lights.
Thanks, I've looked at the paperwork (leaflets that come with) for a couple but they don't say. I'm hoping that's a good sign.
They certainly should say. In particular, it would be dangerous to assume nothing is needed just because it's not mentioned.

For example, a friend has recently fitted some Halers H2, and they need a fair bit of space round them. Don't believe the common statements that "LEDs don't get hot" or "fire rated downlighters don't need space round them".

Failing to give some space round the fitting creates two potential problems :
1) The heat will affect the life of the units - so potentially early failure which you don't really want given the expense of them.
2) There's a risk of igniting combustible materials (such as the wood of the joists or roof/floor above).

Personally, I'd suggest using units that are designed as LEDs. A fitting which is designed as halogen and then fitted with an LED lamp is likely to be a poor compromise.
Mind you, although I'm quite impressed with the Halers units - they haven't changed my mind about not liking downlighters.
 
I think that the only people who can tell you what clearance you'll need will be the people who make the lights.
Thanks, I've looked at the paperwork (leaflets that come with) for a couple but they don't say. I'm hoping that's a good sign.
They certainly should say. In particular, it would be dangerous to assume nothing is needed just because it's not mentioned.

For example, a friend has recently fitted some Halers H2, and they need a fair bit of space round them. Don't believe the common statements that "LEDs don't get hot" or "fire rated downlighters don't need space round them".

Failing to give some space round the fitting creates two potential problems :
1) The heat will affect the life of the units - so potentially early failure which you don't really want given the expense of them.
2) There's a risk of igniting combustible materials (such as the wood of the joists or roof/floor above).

Personally, I'd suggest using units that are designed as LEDs. A fitting which is designed as halogen and then fitted with an LED lamp is likely to be a poor compromise.
Mind you, although I'm quite impressed with the Halers units - they haven't changed my mind about not liking downlighters.
Thanks, that's why I'm asking. I'm cautious and don't want to get it wrong. They also have a large heat sink so I realise that they do generate heat but vastly different to the alternates and cool (well, warm... but not hot) to the touch.

The ones I'm looking at are integrated LED units, with an expected life of 30,000 to 50,000 hours.
 
They also have a large heat sink so I realise that they do generate heat but vastly different to the alternates and cool (well, warm... but not hot) to the touch.
They have large heat sinks because, although they don't produce a lot of heat, they are highly intolerant of the little they do.

Basically you have 2 choices.

1) Guess at what's needed and hope you do not drastically shorten the life of the lights

or

2) Ask the maker what they recommend.
 

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