cement mix for timber to brick on door frame?
- Thread starter diyreg
- Start date
Mortar is neither use nor ornament for vertical infill betwixt a frame and masonry. Too much movement.
Small gaps should be filled with mastic, larger ones fill with foam.
However, it is acceptable to use a mortar bed beneath the sills of doors and windows.
Small gaps should be filled with mastic, larger ones fill with foam.
However, it is acceptable to use a mortar bed beneath the sills of doors and windows.
Back in the days of old the frames were a tight fit in an opening and planed to fit thanks to a combination of good plumb / straight brickwork and a good carpenter / joiner. If a wall is built correctly with the correct damp prevention measures then a window or door should need no sealant whatsoever and after seeing some recent jobs done by "professional" Door and Window fitters I think they might as well not bother.
Sealant is a great invention for hiding a multitude of sins and allows windows to be anything from 0mm up to anything like 25mm.
I understand if some sort of sealant or filler is required but I just wanted to write some boring.......blah blah blah.
Sealant is a great invention for hiding a multitude of sins and allows windows to be anything from 0mm up to anything like 25mm.
I understand if some sort of sealant or filler is required but I just wanted to write some boring.......blah blah blah.
Old days - didn`t they build the frames into the brickwork as it went up 
or was I seeing things from about 1966 onwards 
funny comment - not mine - the last person who told me that chippies fitted windows by shooting( planing) them in was a Upvc Window fitter 
or was I seeing things from about 1966 onwards funny comment - not mine - the last person who told me that chippies fitted windows by shooting( planing) them in was a Upvc Window fitter Take it, that it is a timber frame as you do not wall in UVPC frames due to expansion allowance.
Nige is right. We have been walling timber frames in to brickwork since 1952 and it was only in the 80s that NHBC specified mastic to external frames. Before then no mastic was used. In all me born days never seen a chippie trying to shoot an external frame in to opening. We used to build them in and fix them as we went up.
If it is a timber frame, then wall it in with a 1to6 sand and cement with splash of admix, three frame cramps up each side or three lots of doubled up 100mm nails.
If horns on frame, build bottom horns in. Half cut back top horns and chop of, wall in closure to front of horn.
oldun
Nige is right. We have been walling timber frames in to brickwork since 1952 and it was only in the 80s that NHBC specified mastic to external frames. Before then no mastic was used. In all me born days never seen a chippie trying to shoot an external frame in to opening. We used to build them in and fix them as we went up.
If it is a timber frame, then wall it in with a 1to6 sand and cement with splash of admix, three frame cramps up each side or three lots of doubled up 100mm nails.
If horns on frame, build bottom horns in. Half cut back top horns and chop of, wall in closure to front of horn.
oldun
It was probably my rushed post, but it was in regards to like for like replacements (replacement windows etc).
Only recently I was told by a "professional" Carpenter that the grooves on the side of the uPVC frames was for allowing the frame to be planed to fit before proceeding to plane the grooves off a tight fitting uPVC door.
From the uPVC fitters that I have met they have a belief that that is exactly what the grooves are for
I have had a Joiner "shoot" wooden windows frames into a Barn Conversion we did only a couple of years ago and they were fitted tight enough and well enough to not require mastic or foam.
Only recently I was told by a "professional" Carpenter that the grooves on the side of the uPVC frames was for allowing the frame to be planed to fit before proceeding to plane the grooves off a tight fitting uPVC door.
From the uPVC fitters that I have met they have a belief that that is exactly what the grooves are for
I have had a Joiner "shoot" wooden windows frames into a Barn Conversion we did only a couple of years ago and they were fitted tight enough and well enough to not require mastic or foam.
There are some bricks that you can't get completely tight to the frame because of their rustic shape. There will be slight gaps where water could penetrate, but the DPC tacked into the groove will help stop it.
In some areas the frames are protected by rebated jambs.
In some areas the frames are protected by rebated jambs.
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