Central Heating Plan for Large House

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I'd be thinking a plant room housing booster set or accumulators for water, 2 or 3 boilers (Intergas obvs) depending on Heatloss. And maybe 2 x 250 litre unvented cylinders, or possibly an ACV smartline.

Split house into 3 or 4 Heating zones if rads , or more if using ufh on ground floor.

If ufh on the ground floor, perhaps add air source heat pump to take that loading and grab some RHI.

If you have big rooms upstairs you could put ufh there too, but that will cost.


Bare in mind this is purely going on that picture alone and a couple of recent jobs.
 
Great, thanks

Are there any disadvantages (other than cost of install) to zone even further 2with rads (maybe zoned per room)?
 
Cost of installation.

The running of pipes can be costly in terms of materials and labour.

But the options are almost limitless if you're prepared to pay.
 
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Apparently the grundfos pump plan is all the rage at the mo, 38/18 indirect cylinder on one pump and the other 15-50 to do the rest of the heating, we even got someone to wire it up for you.(y)
 
why don't you put up a few photos of your install ?

The Johnson and Starley Reno 16 Heat only tucks nicely into the narrow alcove in the kitchen. The plate rack can be lifted off the wall when the boiler needs servicing. ( Boiler was fitted by a GasSafe registered engineer )
boiler.jpg

One problem with a Grade II listed building is finding routes for pipes without removing or damaging the "historic fabric" of the building. Hence use of existing holes in the 500 year old stone wall and some "creative" routing to get pipes from kitchen into the rest of the house.
Dining radiator re-plumb.jpg

The vented cylinder / heat store that supplies upstairs, bath room, bath and two wash basins. The 15 mm connections are to the coil that heats mains pressure water for the shower. This "tower" had to be constructed using the stone chimney stack and the main beam for support due to small cross section joists that were never intended to carry the weight of water tanks and cylinders.
hot water cylinder bath room.jpg

The not pressurised cylinder that supplies hot water to the kitchen and utility room. This additional cylinder was a better option than getting a hot feed pipe down from the bathroom cylinder and through the stone wall.
hot water cylinder kitchen.jpg
 
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It will be highly inefficient if you have a system to heat the whole house and provide hot water to 16 people but then only have you three living there!

I would recommend a single 300 li unvented to start with and space kept beside it if you ever needed any more stored water.

Is there any cellar? Otherwise plumbing unobtrusively will be difficult.

Nice looking house! Presumably you can add secondary glazing if currently single?

Really planners are mad. I have some Rehau plastic sash windows which look like wood from the street. To be fair planners in some conservation areas will accept them but not all.

Tony
 
That looks a lovely house. As you plan to live there long-term, invest in quality equipment and simple but effective controls. Don't be talked into a showy plant room, keep it simple. There is something to be said for two entirely separate systems, downstairs and upstairs, for instance. You then have the simplest of instant zoning, and there will always be some heat and hot water in the case of a breakdown. Modern quality boilers, installed by a knowledgeable and competent installer, are highly reliable. Stick with the boiler manufacturer's weather compensated controls and zoning, remotes and Apps. You wouldn't buy a Mercedes-Benz and then specify a BMW automatic gearbox and a VW cruise control!
 
why don't you put up a few photos of your install ?

The Johnson and Starley Reno 16 Heat only tucks nicely into the narrow alcove in the kitchen. The plate rack can be lifted off the wall when the boiler needs servicing. ( Boiler was fitted by a GasSafe registered engineer )
View attachment 103046

One problem with a Grade II listed building is finding routes for pipes without removing or damaging the "historic fabric" of the building. Hence use of existing holes in the 500 year old stone wall and some "creative" routing to get pipes from kitchen into the rest of the house.
View attachment 103047

The vented cylinder / heat store that supplies upstairs, bath room, bath and two wash basins. The 15 mm connections are to the coil that heats mains pressure water for the shower. This "tower" had to be constructed using the stone chimney stack and the main beam for support due to small cross section joists that were never intended to carry the weight of water tanks and cylinders.
View attachment 103048

The not pressurised cylinder that supplies hot water to the kitchen and utility room. This additional cylinder was a better option than getting a hot feed pipe down from the bathroom cylinder and through the stone wall.
View attachment 103049
Well..all I can say is what a fookin lash up.....jeez..
 

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