Ch works but no hot water. Valve and motor work potterton heat max 28he

I forgot to mention when I replaced the parts mentioned it worked fine for 24 hours then the fuse blew so I went back out. I found that the air admittance valve on top of the boiler had failed causing water to get into the boiler. My guess is that as I'd drained the boiler to change the valve air got into the system, the air admitancea valve had dirt in it so when it opened to let the air out it did not seal correctly and caused the leek. It had not leeked before this as no air had been in the system for ages so it had remaoned closed
 
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AAV is automatic air vent, not air admittance valve, personally I only use them when filling the boiler, then I close the cap,they always leak
 
Ianmcd that was my bad been doing nights I knew it was to get rid of air just give it the wrong name thank you for correcting though as could cause confusion.(I had air admittance valve in my mind from changing a soil pipe).. If it's caped off (I caped it as soon as I saw it was leeking) does that not cause air to remain trapped in the system? Will that cause issues? I was going to fix or replace it today but if they are fine capped of there's no need to change it?
 
you shouldnt get air in the system if all is well , if you do just open the cap to bleed it and close it again,you should only need to do this if you have drained the boiler,replace it if you want its hardly a big job
 
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I had drained the system when I replaced the valve in the first place. I did replace the aav but told the guy just to cap it if it evet leeks in the future. I traced the live incoming found 240 checked points mentioned in this thread and found all were correct voltage at correct times (with hot tap on then with Ch on) then I checked the plug that goes onto the motor and still fine, but on closer inspection I found that the Leeds from the multi mester were getting connection to the voltage at the end of the spade terminals inside the leed but the terminals were actually damaged where they had been shorting. Also as they were louse inside the end of the plug lead due to the damage, it was impossible to tell if they were making a sound connection once the lead was in place on the motor. As I wanted to rule this out I used what I had with me to do a temotempo repair (cut the end off replaced spade terminals with new ones soldered on) then it worked fine. I feel stupid for not realising this initially but thank everyone for there help.
 

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That’s what learning is all about, learn from mistakes to prevent recurrence.

You’re welcome, just glad it’s sorted.
 

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