Chain Saw Repair

[Munroast]

The pipe has rotted in the fuel tank and the heavy pickup thing cannot be attached - so I need to fit a new pipe. However, as per the image, I can nae get the pipe out, it must be glued in or something.

How are these pipes replaced ?

calling @Burnerman

 

[Burnerman]

I’ve only known those pipes to be a push fit - but they do have to be tight to prevent leaks. The pipes often neck where they pass through.
Has the filter plus pipe broken off?
What is the make of the machine? I can’t recognise it yet!
John

 

[denso13]

As above, replaced my strimmer ones, tight, but push fit.

 

[Dork Lard]

Would hot water / hot air gun help?

 

[Munroast]

I’ve only known those pipes to be a push fit - but they do have to be tight to prevent leaks. The pipes often neck where they pass through.
Has the filter plus pipe broken off?
What is the make of the machine? I can’t recognise it yet!
John

Yes, the pipe has just perished. and the heavy pickup / filter thing was just lying in the bottom.

I kept wondering why it was running well when brim full, but kept conking out with the tank half full


Is this sort of perishing all part and parcel of the new petrol we are now forced to buy?

Anyways - I take it I can just pull this pipe out and push a new one through, no glues or sealants used?

 

[Roy Bloom]

Yes, the pipe has just perished. and the heavy pickup / filter thing was just lying in the bottom.

I kept wondering why it was running well when brim full, but kept conking out with the tank half full


Is this sort of perishing all part and parcel of the new petrol we are now forced to buy?

Anyways - I take it I can just pull this pipe out and push a new one through, no glues or sealants used?

I use bog standard petol.
I only use the special offering to run for a few minutes prior to storing.

 

[Munroast]

Would hot water / hot air gun help?

hmm, I don't know.

What woud be best to force a very tight fitting flexible plastic pipe through the hole. would heating it make it too soft, would cooling it (fridge or eaven freezer) make it firmer ?

 

[Munroast]

I use bog standard petol.
I only use the special offering to run for a few minutes prior to storing.

I don't bother with that, it never really gets stored, will get used most weeks or maybe fortnights.

just wondered if it is the new petrol caused the perishing.

 

[Dork Lard]

just wondered if it is the new petrol caused the perishing.

If it's the original pipe then I'd assume it's OK with E5/E10 petrol.

I've done a lot of work on 80's & 90's superbike carburettors & the devastating effect on them of E5/E10 fuel. The main problem is the ethanol attracts water, when the fuel goes stale that ethanol/water seperates out & becomes very caustic. It rots NBR rubber & the zinc alloys used to cast the actual carbs.

I'd assume your saw isn't all that old so it 'should' have been made to cope with E5/E10 fuel.

Just don't let the fuel go stale, which can happen within 2wks. Never leave the tank with fuel in, always drain & run dry. Even if it can cope with the ethanol it cannot cope with the glaze.

Worldwide MILLIONS of small petrol engines have been rendered useless by the introduction of ethanol in fuel, which has only ever benefitted the big corporations that farm the millions of acres . . . . .

 

[Munroast]

If it's the original pipe then I'd assume it's OK with E5/E10 petrol.

I've done a lot of work on 80's & 90's superbike carburettors & the devastating effect on them of E5/E10 fuel. The main problem is the ethanol attracts water, when the fuel goes stale that ethanol/water seperates out & becomes very caustic. It rots NBR rubber & the zinc alloys used to cast the actual carbs.

I'd assume your saw isn't all that old so it 'should' have been made to cope with E5/E10 fuel.

Just don't let the fuel go stale, which can happen within 2wks. Never leave the tank with fuel in, always drain & run dry. Even if it can cope with the ethanol it cannot cope with the glaze.

Worldwide MILLIONS of small petrol engines have been rendered useless by the introduction of ethanol in fuel, which has only ever benefitted the big corporations that farm the millions of acres . . . . .

saws 23 year old - but I'm thinking this is a plastic pipe, so should not have rotted.

As for old fuel - I will regularly have fuel 2 or 3 months old - and I'm never going to drain clean fuel systems after every use. When I put the saw down, I never know if I will be using it the morrow or next month!

 

[Roy Bloom]

I always assume that I won't be using the c/s, strimmer, or chipper for a while.
Sometimes I find it's easier to use a handsaw than to get the chain saw out for a little job.

 

[Dork Lard]

This is the insides of a mates carbs after a 10wk winter layup.

 

[Trazor]

saws 23 year old - but I'm thinking this is a plastic pipe, so should not have rotted.

All plastic/rubber will age harden/ rot over the years.

 

[Dork Lard]

Not one of mine, but an example of ethanol corrosion from a group I frequent.

 

[Burnerman]

The best fuel pipe to use is called Tygon.....yellow in colour and seems to be pretty indestructible so far.
I’ve been replacing these pipes for ages now, long before petrol was designated E5 or E10. - just unleaded had to do!
Deterioration is due to heat and light as well as fuel.
Be aware, there are many different diameters of tygon pipe, both internal and external so out with the vernier!
Best to use premixed aspen fuel or equivalent, £20 for 5 litres just now.
I’m pretty sure those pipes will just push in, but do clear the crap away first!
GHS Ltd can fix you up.
John