Changed an Actuator Valve now no hot water!

[dp1979]

Turn the heating circuit off and try turning the pump speed up then down a few times. trying to shift the air lock.

So to try that I need to turn the hot water on then turn the big metal screw in the pump?

Sorry I'm a complete amateur!

 

[dp1979]

Or you just have an air lock in that section through the cylinder. Any air release valves nearby.

There is one to the right of the pump. Any good?

 

[dp1979]

Can you open it manually and lock it open.
After doing the Xmas washing up, start on the wiring checks

Hi Tony, I dont think so.

its one of these

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...efview=lister&ts=1293111863815&isSearch=false

 

[tryitandsee]

Drayton two port Valves are supplied normally closed, (they have to be powered to open). They spring
return to the closed position when the power is removed. Flow direction should be in through Port ‘A’
and out through Port ‘B’.


Copied straight out of Drayton!

Yes open it up and see if any air comes out.

 

[spraggo]

Turn the heating circuit off and try turning the pump speed up then down a few times. trying to shift the air lock.

So to try that I need to turn the hot water on then turn the big metal screw in the pump?

Sorry I'm a complete amateur!

It`s a PRIMATIC it`s a PRIMATIC.

 

[tryitandsee]

Is the two port valve the right way round?

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

Never sure about primatic cylinders on fully pumped setup, as others say it can blow the air bubble, however it must have worked ok before, I would move the red insulation to one side and check above the flow pipe going in on the side of the tank about 3" to 9" above and see if there is a manual air vent that needs bleeding.

 

[spraggo]

Never sure about primatic cylinders on fully pumped setup, as others say it can blow the air bubble, however it must have worked ok before, I would move the red insulation to one side and check above the flow pipe going in on the side of the tank about 3" to 9" above and see if there is a manual air vent that needs bleeding.

OK It might have worked before, though I don`t know how, but I do not understand why the OP is not taking my advice and draining the PRIMATIC cylinder and refilling to re establish the air break. I doubt whether the OP will find an air vent as the primaries are self venting on these cylinders.

 

[Andygasman2010]

Looks like an odd set-up to me. How are we sure that it is actually a primatic? The plan suggests it's an indirect cylinder. If it is primatic then the pump should be on the return.

OP, how many header tanks do you have in the loft?

 

[Unklian]

Some of you more experienced guys may know the colours.

Perhaps the OP hasn't connected the "Live when valve open"
return wire......read through his posts, he has a spare wire.

Perhaps the valve is opening as it should. Then, when fully
opened, it is supplying 240 v down the correct wire but if it isn't connected to anything......ie, the boiler, nothing will happen.

To the OP, the "spare" wire, does it become live (240 volts) after the valve has fully opened?
(The idea behing this arrangement is to ensure that the valve opens fully FIRST, before any power goes to the boiler. ie If you just supplied 240v to the valve at the same time as the boiler, if the valve failed and the boiler & pump started, as you can imagine......problems).
My suggestion is that......some of your wires are correct......the valve has power......it opens when it's supposed to but then, when it's fully open, it should send 240v back to the boiler down a wire......no feed to boiler, no heating.

This MAY be your problem.

Possibly a new direction to work at.

Ian.

 

[dp1979]

Ok Thanks Everyone for the suggestions. Managed to solve it by running the hot taps for a while after bleeding the valve to the right of the pump. Hot water ok now. Thanks again everyone!