Changing ch room thermostat

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Hi. I'm wanting to change my central heating room thermostat. It currently has 4 wires coming from the wall of which 2 are unused and taped up ( neutral and Earth). The new thermostat is a Drayton MiTime T710R and I'm not sure how to wire it. I'll add some pics to help. First here is the wiring diagram from my current thermostat....
 
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Well, i think you have the wrong end of the stick!

The Drayton MiTime T710R is a programmer that has a wireless thermostat.
The main box (the larger one of the two) replaces your existing boiler programmer. This allows you to control the heating and hot water times.
The smaller box is the thermostat and this can go anywhere.

The wiring to the existing thermostat will then be redundant and can be removed.
 
Thanks for your reply. I'm not sure I worded it correctly, but it is a boiler programmer with thermostat that I am replacing (see pic)image.jpg
 
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No it is not.
The Digistat is a programmable room thermostat.

You may have another programmer,somewhere where you can set the times for the hot water and the central heating.
Something like this
ae235

What sort of boiler do you have?
 
Sorry for any confusion. I used the digistat to control my central heating ( condenser boiler). I set times for the heating to switch on and off using this. Unfortunately after several years it's started to malfunction so I was looking for a replacement. So you're saying the new unit is not what I need to replace this?
 
I have just replaced a thermostat and timer in my mothers house for a timed thermostat. Old system has two options. It is on at set temperature or off. New one has 5 options per day non is actually off. This post only a few days ago was talking about the same thing.

Look at the Horstman DRT2 and the Horstman HRFS1 and see if these do what you want.

Since that post I have had a problem with the Horstman HRFS1 some one pressed the frost guard button which turns off heating and just keeps house warm enough to stop freezing. It was not the unit which was at fault, it was some one fiddling. I did not realise what had happened at first which resulted in mother getting cold.
 
ae235
Is this not flash enough? Or this
ae235
the hard wired version.

Mothers house had a Honeywell ST9100C1006 7 Day Timeswitch and a Honeywell Y6630D Wireless thermostat still made at £52.63 and £110.24 which I replaced with the Horstman HRFS1 at £40.57 other than when some one pressed the frost button it's worked A1.

There are more expensive systems which have a RF TRV which takes to a base station so every room is individually controlled and once they all are satisfied the hub closes down the boiler but they are rather expensive. The in between the two systems are to be frank suspect as far are worth fitting. Most houses have a simple TRV system fitted which to an extent controls each room independently. Any thermostat will only work in one room and the old idea of fitting in the coldest room does not really work when TRV are fitted. It is at best a compromise so fitting nest or hive all they really do is allow you to alter one room and are rather expensive with a half hearted approach they are designed for hot air systems not our water systems.

Spending £40.57 on a compromise seems OK, but to spend £180 on a thermostat that's without the rest that goes with it. And for it to only control one room to my mind seems daft. I did consider Hive or Nest with the idea I could control mother house from home. For me it may have been worth it.
 
Okay. So looking at the diagram for this heatmiser thermostat, and looking at my wires in the first post- which goes where? I'm not sure what the yellow one is...it was used for the 'call for heat' in my digistat image.png
 
On your old wiring, the blue goes on to N = Neutral (you need that)
The red goes on L (live) and you need a bit of wire to link L to A1 too
Yellow goes to A2
That's it.
 

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