chasing 150mm corner space

[Odd Job]

Hi chasing out for wires and sockets for rewire, the old metal pipes may well be stuck with the old wires in them, we couldn't budge the old cooker wire when replacing it.

So i have found a much easier route to eliminate 2 pipes if it is acceptable.

a breeze block wall dot and dabbed on both sides.

i could use the space to chase wires down the corners where it meets the concrete walls.

if i have read in Wiki correct wires in 150mm don't need capping or insulating but i would like to do this anyway.

Is there a required depth for this 150mm zone? and the horizontal stretch to the sockets would this be different as being out of the zone?.

Will the width of a breeze block wall i think 5 inches? be acceptable to have sockets with in the plaster board covering.

It will mean that one one side of the wall in the kitchen which is dot and dab there will be 2 x db skt and on the other side of the wall which is dot and dab in the lounge will haven 1x db skt.

OJ

 

[comms]

if i have read in Wiki correct wires in 150mm don't need capping or insulating but i would like to do this anyway.

Correct no capping required, but if you want use metal or plastic capping.

Is there a required depth for this 150mm zone

No if your going to dot dab just run cables on the surface using clips.

and the horizontal stretch to the sockets would this be different as being out of the zone?.

No dog legs arnt the best practise but the cables will still be with in a recognised zone.

Will the width of a breeze block wall i think 5 inches? be acceptable to have sockets with in the plaster board covering.

If your dotdabbing the plasterboard, sink the back box by 1/4 inch into breeze block, offer plasterboard up & give a tap where the box is this will mark the p/board, cut out marked area to give a snug fit on back box. Now use adhesive to bring p/board level with face edge of back box. (hope that makes sense)

It will mean that one one side of the wall in the kitchen which is dot and dab there will be 2 x db skt and on the other side of the wall which is dot and dab in the lounge will haven 1x db skt.

No problem with that.

 

[Odd Job]

Hi comms
2 of the sockets I can get close to the corner if its better than takling wires off on horizontal angle.

the plasterboard dot and dab was put up last year.
So I still have to chase out a wall . no peace for the wicked and so much mess.

thanks
OJ

 

[comms]

2 of the sockets I can get close to the corner if its better than takling wires off on horizontal angle.

You could place one socket close to the corner then run horizontal from that socket any length you want to the second socket.

 

[Odd Job]

2 of the sockets I can get close to the corner if its better than takling wires off on horizontal angle.

You could place one socket close to the corner then run horizontal from that socket any length you want to the second socket.

its about a meter and 10 inch above work surface did want to come down for both, to save accidents later, next home owner, my son any one really.

Also hate spurs never know in this house what some one may plug in it.
( ours is a mad house)

but i will be tiling over the area any way. i am going to have a look at the depth of the dot and dab, i so do not want to be chasing breeze blocks any time soon

Edit
Comms just read your post again regarding only cutting out for the back box on a normal dot and dab job.
Does this mean there is a good possibility the wires will run down ok between the wall and the boards with no chasing and if so and there is no dot and dab at the edges would it be ok to pull it down through from the cieling between the dot and dab with out disurbing the new plaster wall.

I can get out 1/4 inch for the sockets no problem.

 

[ColJack]

you need to sink the boxes to be flush with the face of the plaster/board so it will be 25-35mm ( i'd go for the 35.. makes it easier. )

if you're lucky you can snake the cable down behind the dot 'n' dab but it might be a pain to find a route..

also, it still needs to be vertical from the socket to be in the safe zone..

best of luck to you...

 

[Odd Job]

hello i have done most of the job today, i tapped the plaster board to locate a free run and have managed to actually pass the oval plastic conduit down to the socket although it does go on a slight slant.

At the ceiling it enters the conduit just over what would be the line on the corner and then enters the dry wall box in the halfway point. i hope that is ok.

On the other room i have managed to find one run behind the plaster board that allows 2 oval conduits to run together, but only with 1 in front of the other.

Would it be ok to use one short length on the front for the wall light and have the casing behind to continue down to the dry wall box. which is est 5 ft below wall light.

thank you for your advise, if its ok its in the bag