Chasing for cables

[getonwithit]

I am chasing my kitchen walls for my new cables. When I get to the worktop level is it acceptable to leave the cable out of the wall (behind base unit) and maybe enclose them in surface mounted conduit

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Yes it will be, but I would chase the whole lot, then plaster. Nice tidy job!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I have to say that a picture of someone out of his depth, thinking it's OK to do major electrical work if he asks random questions as they occur to him as he's going on, is getting clearer and clearer.

And if you're in England or Wales it's notifiable....

If you're in England or Wales that is also notifiable, even if you leave the fuse in the CU alone.

Are you in England or Wales?

When you've got these cables installed what tests will you carry out on them?

What sequence will you do the tests in and at what point will you energise the circuit?

For each test do you know what is being measured, why it is important, how you will carry out the test, and with what equipment, and what sort of results you will expect to get if everything is OK?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Should have asked about depths of chases and are they just in the plaster or brick/block work of the wall too.
There are certain requirements that need to be adhered to when chasing out walls.
So for a more informative answer a little more detail will be required.

 

[sparkwright]

If it is easy to chase behind the cupboards, then do so. But make sure the cables are in safe zones to reduce the chances of them ever getting drillied through.

If the chasing is hard work, there is no reason why you can't just clip the cables behind the cupboards.

If you have old knackered crumbly plaster it would make sense to chase the cables in, as the cable clips wouldn't stay in plaster very well.

 

[getonwithit]

I am not the person doing the work, but the person watching. I was wanting second opinions on here.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Does anyone know if it is possible to utilise an extint emersion heater cable and use it for lighting to the underside of my new kitchen cupboards. At present the fuse has been removed from the CU. Is it a case of down rating the fuse to 5 amp? Or do I start from scratch?

Fuse was a 15 A and an old type. Identified with blue circles and uses fuse wire. Can I mark up the front so that any future electrician knows or do I need to get a new fuse wire holder?

OOps, Just realised what your answer meant. I leave the 15 A fuse as it is.

Can I use 20 amp junction box at the end of my fused connection spur to connect the flex of my lights

What size cable after the fused connection unit. I have 2.5mm in, can I hve same size out or does it need to be 1.5mm

Is 2.5 ok as this is what I have used

I am chasing my kitchen walls for my new cables. When I get to the worktop level is it acceptable to leave the cable out of the wall (behind base unit) and maybe enclose them in surface mounted conduit

I am not the person doing the work, but the person watching. I was wanting second opinions on here.

How many sockets can you have on a ring main?

Why are you using an electrician who doesn't know that?

Is there a correct way to position the twin and earth cable when using a junction box with three connectors ie does the earth have to be in the middle or not

Why are you using an electrician who doesn't know that?

 

[getonwithit]

I have to say that a picture of someone out of his depth, thinking it's OK to do major electrical work if he asks random questions as they occur to him as he's going on, is getting clearer and clearer.

And if you're in England or Wales it's notifiable....

If you're in England or Wales that is also notifiable, even if you leave the fuse in the CU alone.

Are you in England or Wales?

When you've got these cables installed what tests will you carry out on them?

What sequence will you do the tests in and at what point will you energise the circuit?

For each test do you know what is being measured, why it is important, how you will carry out the test, and with what equipment, and what sort of results you will expect to get if everything is OK?

I am in England.

What tests need carried out and in what sequence? I assume that when you say energised you mean turn the power on to the new circuit / cables?

I thought I would get good advice from this website hence the basic questions. All I am trying to do is check that my job is being done correctly.

Nice man from the coucil told me to chase walls to acheive min 50 mm cover. Second nice man from council now tells me to check with structural engineer as this may now weaken the integrity of the wall. Surface mounted conduit now suggested.

 

[sparkwright]

Do not chase walls 50 mm deep for cables.

Providing you run the cables in safe cable zones, ie vertically or horizontally, chase so the cables will be about 5 mm from the finished plaster. If you use the cable zones there is no need for metal protection, though I recommend you use plastic PVC oval conduit or capping over the cables to avoid damage while replastering.

You will need 30 mA RCD protection to protect these concealed cables. This can be achieved at the consumer unit.

Do NOT chase cables in 50 mm deep, this will weaken your walls considerably.

No need for surface conduit. Flush the cables in. Otherwise it will look cack.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I am in England.

Then this work is notifiable. Are you using an electrician who can self-certify? If not then you need to apply for Building Regulations approval before the work starts.

What tests need carried out and in what sequence?

See http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/8.1.1.htm.

Or proceed on the basis that your electrician will know.

I assume that when you say energised you mean turn the power on to the new circuit / cables?

Yes.

I thought I would get good advice from this website hence the basic questions. All I am trying to do is check that my job is being done correctly.

Why have you engaged an electrician whose competence you doubt?

Nice man from the coucil told me to chase walls to acheive min 50 mm cover. Second nice man from council now tells me to check with structural engineer as this may now weaken the integrity of the wall. Surface mounted conduit now suggested.

Why have you engaged an electrician who doesn't know how and where to chase cables?

 

[seasickstevie]

There is absolutely no need to sink any cables behind fitted units.

I used to sink them many years ago, but after being in so many situations where decisions were changed either as units where going in, or sometime after, and appliance positions changed, it became obvious that sinking cables, and flush-mounting boxes just cause restrictions in every kitchen I did.

Since then, I run trunking behind units, or clip as appropriate, and surface mount all accessories that are below worktop height.

 

[getonwithit]

I have to say that a picture of someone out of his depth, thinking it's OK to do major electrical work if he asks random questions as they occur to him as he's going on, is getting clearer and clearer.

And if you're in England or Wales it's notifiable....

If you're in England or Wales that is also notifiable, even if you leave the fuse in the CU alone.

Are you in England or Wales?

When you've got these cables installed what tests will you carry out on them?

What sequence will you do the tests in and at what point will you energise the circuit?

For each test do you know what is being measured, why it is important, how you will carry out the test, and with what equipment, and what sort of results you will expect to get if everything is OK?

I am in England.

What tests need carried out and in what sequence? I assume that when you say energised you mean turn the power on to the new circuit / cables?

I thought I would get good advice from this website hence the basic questions. All I am trying to do is check that my job is being done correctly.

Nice man from the coucil told me to chase walls to acheive min 50 mm cover. Second nice man from council now tells me to check with structural engineer as this may now weaken the integrity of the wall. Surface mounted conduit now suggested.

I did not say that I was using an electrician that did'nt known something! I am just checking!!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

So you think that asking a few questions here on a subject about which you know almost nothing is going to equip you to check the work of a qualified professional electrician who studied for years to get where he is?

Why do you think you need to check if you are not unsure of his competence? And if you do doubt his competence, why did you employ him?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

What tests need carried out and in what sequence? I assume that when you say energised you mean turn the power on to the new circuit / cables?

There are two two test stages and should be done in the correct order
Dead Tests;
Continuity of protective conductor
Continuity of ring final circuit conductors
Insulation resistance
Protection by selv,pelv or electrical separation
Protection by barriers or enclosures
Insulation of non-conductive floors
Dead polarity of Circuit

Live Test;
Live polarity
Earth electrode resistance(Ze)
Earth faulty loop(Ze,Zs)
Prospective fault current
Functional Test of RCD and circuits.
These test test should be done using a certificated calibrated test meter/meters.

Nice man from the coucil told me to chase walls to acheive min 50 mm cover. Second nice man from council now tells me to check with structural engineer as this may now weaken the integrity of the wall. Surface mounted conduit now suggested.

When chasing walls you can only chase a maximum depth of one third of the walls leaf thickness for vertical chases.
and one sixth on the horizontal.
Chase should not impair the structural stability of the wall.
The 50mm depth that you spoke of is concerning the use of RCD protection in some chase this can not be achieved due the above regulation on chase depths, so mechanical protection will need to be used either interrogated with cable or metallic caps/conduit.
All things your electrician should be fully aware of, if you are interseted in the test procedurers I recommend the purchase of Guidance Note 3 by Thr IEE and Practical Guide to Inspection, Testing and Certification of Electrical Installations by Chris Kitcher.
I can give you ISBN numbers if you wish!

 

[ajrobb]

Why do you think you need to check if you are not unsure of his competence? And if you do doubt his competence, why did you employ him?

Oh come on BAS. We punters get several quotes from sparks. Eliminate those who can't tie their shoe laces or wipe their noses and go for the cheapest. However, not all qualified trades people are equal and you don't need to be 100% right to get qualified.