Chasing Out - HELP!!

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Hi,

Im changing our bathroom (re-tiling mainly) and I want to re route the shower pipes from going up and along the wall, to going through the wall. I therefore need to 'chase out' the wall and am a little unsure about how to do it. Obviously it will need quite a bit of elbow grease, but its what I fill it in with/how deep to go/is it OK to do it, that Im unsure about!

Please help, any comments welcome.

Charlie
 
If the wall is made of brick or building blocks you can get a small angle grinder and chase the wall out that way. It will create a lot of dust but the finished product will be neater. Only go as deep as the pipes and put some straps across to keep them in place. You don't need to re plaster because the tiles will cover them anyway.
 
Thanks for that. Would it be sensible to fill in the gap with filler of some sort, or would this cause problems with the hot pipe?

Charlie
 
i wrap the pipes in duct tape and just use browning" to fill in the gaps..its neater
 
Rough plaster. you can has suggested wrap the pipes with insulation tape its up to you :lol:
 
The pipes will move, so its best to leave some space around them.

I wouldn't use an angle grinder - too much mess. If you drill a load of holes the same depth, in a pair of lines, a sharp cold chisel will make short work of the infill.

For 15mm pipes you can use cheap 22mm overflow pipe as a "duct". It protects the copper, holds plastic 15mm in place if you use that, and you can fix it in with nail-in pipe clips.

For a "plasterer" like me, Bonding is easier to use than Browning! Builder's foam is OK if you're tiling and the chase is narrow.
 
i have never had a problem with plastering over the pipes...the length of pipe is only 4 ft ?
the linear expansion on that will be minimal
also...what do you think - would the duct tape allow it to expand anyway ?...
 
ChrisR said:
Bonding is easier to use than Browning!
I think one of these is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts water strongly, so may not be a good idea in a shower area....But I can't remember which one off hand - anyone know?
 
I always thought Browning was to be avoided at all costs in damp conditions.

My uncle in the property game won't let browning over the threshold.

I use sand and cement in bathrooms that I'm tiling. Obviously then the pipes must be porotected fromt he cement.
 
i reckon if the water is getting to the browning it's a bit late anyway..its got past the tile and grout. browning is used all over leicester by a lot of plumbers for the same thing

(unless someone now corrects me !)

their will be technical differences between browning and bonding (do to with suction properties, and backgrounds ur plastering onto) but i still think if its reached that point it knackered anyway and a re-grout etc is required
 
Ofcourse to do a proffesional job you could wrap the pipe in air felt opposed to duct tape or overflow pipe. These materials will not prevent pipe sweat in the wall. Air felt will. With regards to how mush to chase, i recommend you wrap your pipe and try them in your channel if its not deep enough take abit more out.
 
Presumaly by "sweat" you mean condensation, which wil only happen if warm air gets to the pipe, which it won't.

What you think you mean by "air felt" I have no idea.

---

Regarding movement, remember that plastic will move about 10 times as much as copper. I've seen it push plaster/tiles off a wall.
 
If you don't know what air felt is i suggest you get qualified. You can buy it from any plumbers merchant. It not only protects the pipe but does prevent condensation, pipe burst in the cold etc.
And unless you are doing the job yourself chris how do you know whether air wont get into contact with the pipe or that the pipe could become cold enough for pipe bursts.
 
Not Hair felt, then :lol: Kno wot I mean Arry, Well Nock me dahn wiv` an Irish Jay
 

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